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Has anyone chosen not to replace the factory h/u and simply instal a small amp to boost power to the 6 speakers you have or has anyone just replaced the front doors with a good set of components and noticed a difference?
 

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I'm seeing Licoln MKZ head units on Ebay for ~$120. Since these are Pioneer units, wouldn't this be a fairly decent and cost effective upgrade for Fusion owners? Seems it should be a simple plug and play swap too....no?
 

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just the door speakers. It's a maybe cause the bass sounds really nice already makes it seem like I have a system lol but I was thinking about getting some pioneer speakers or just suggestions on other good speakers.
 

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Not to take away from anyone on here because the right amount of money will do anything big time! BUT
I have been told our systems maybe put out 8-9 watts of power to the door not sure if this is true and that replaceing the front door speakers may help a little but adding an amp will do 10X more. I also heard your rear speakers are more of a fill so if your on a limited budget like I am.. Buy some nice infinity's for up front and maybe get a small amp but then our factory radio eq curve sucks for loud music w/bass... SO

Heres my plan.. buying an adjustable amp crankin it soo I won't loose my bass puttin infinity's up front some cheap ones in the back doors and callin it a day. I like the look of factory I don't like change.... I know its an OCD issue but I'm dealing with it! good luck buddy

Cheapest Place to purchase all of this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/
 

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[quote author=fusion252 link=topic=38085.msg1120115#msg1120115 date=1167091971]
Hey guys.....Don’t go to best buy or circuit city to get your car speakers. They're too expensive....go on ebay and find an experienced seller with at least 500+ positive feedback. The stock systems in the fusions aren’t bad, but if your young like I am :lol: and want a system that is loud and CLEAR, do not put speakers in the rear deck!! There is no point in doing so...think about it, you’re the driver in the front seat of the car, the only speakers your ears can hear are the ones in the front doors, especially if you put subwoofers in the trunk. You will not be able to hear the speakers in the rear deck. Please take my advice, if you go aftermarket, and want a bumpin system, do what I did:
I) Head unit
There are a lot of possible head units you can get, but it all depends on personal preference, and how much power you need for your speakers (assuming they are not going to be amplified). The head unit (or “deck”) I got for my fusion is the Pioneer Premier DEH-P680MP. This unit is perfect for the door speakers because it can power almost any brand or model of door speakers on the market, and has almost every setting/configuration option you can imagine. If you have the money though, definitely go with the pioneer touch screen…they’re really nice.
II) Speakers
Ok, now you’re all wondering which types of speakers to get for your doors. It took me almost a month to decide. I had to ask for many opinions, so I went to this old timer, who has been doing car stereo installations since cars came out with radios. He told me to definitely go with the Infinity Kappa 680.7cs. This is the best sounding component system I have ever heard…..dont go out and buy a 3, 4, or 5 way speakers when you can buy a nice component system that sounds 100% crystal clear and perfect. Now, if your smart, there is no point of replacing the back door speakers, you are the driver and sit up front in the car!!!! You cannot hear the back speakers!!! Only the passangers in the back can hear them. Don’t go spend more money then you need too haha.
III) Subwoofers
Now for the boom boom lol. Once again, don’t go out and buy cheesy subwoofers like sony xplods, or duals, or anything from best buy/circuit city. Get the real stuff, JL AUDIO!!! I had two JL audio w7’s in the my trunk, but decided to put them in my Toyota sequoia since they’re so ridicuoulsy loud. So once these were removed, I purchased two JL Audio w3v2’s. I built the custom boxes according to the specifications on JL’s website. And boy do these sound great. There is only 200 watts going to each sub and they sound so perfect, I cant describe it. Go with two JL Audio w3v2 subwoofers.
IV) Amplifier
Now for the amplifier, I am a huge phoenix gold person, and always have been, and always will be. Their performance is outstanding and so is their customer service. To power your subs, get the Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.2 amplifier. Its 200 watts per channel, and there are 2 channels. Perfect for your 2 JL audio subs.
Note: please buy a capacitor to help prevent your head lights from dimming at night, every time the subs hit. Also you need an amplifier wiring kit…use 4 gauge wire if you decide to go with this system.

If you decide to go with this system, please email me and let me know what you think. Remember you also have to buy the dash kit so your head unit can fit, an antenna adaptor, and the wiring harness. Oh man, I feel like I just wrote a book lol.


[/quote]

Although my Fusion has the most basic audio setup available, I want to make a couple of points...

1) I agree completely. Head-Unit is completely based on your needs and preferences. Depending on what you want out of your head-unit and whether or not you will be replacing your system speakers has a lot to do with what you're going to want to end up buying. The vast, vast majority of headunits (including our OEM units) come with an amplifier integrated for the speakers, so that you do not need a seperate unit. If you're wanting to replace the speakers around your car, you are probably going to want to replace the headunit. Aftermarket speakers are built to a spec where they require so much power to function properly. An underpowered speaker is going to breakdown and sound shotty much, much faster than an overpowered speaker.

2) Definitely a good choice in speaker for the fronts. One thing to keep in mind when you're building a "component" setup (i.e. the speaker does not have a seperate speaker integrated on top for high-end frequencies) is the front speakers are only going to be used for a specific frequency range. The comment regarding the rear speakers not playing a role in sound quality is one I could not disagree with more. There's a reason your tweeters are located up front, and your subs are located in the back; it deals with the frequency of the soundwaves as they travel through the car. A tweeter in your trunk sounds VERY muffled, where as a sub under your driver seat is going to sound muffled as well as a result what is surrounding it: not a lot (appropriate boxes make a huge difference, but that's a different discussion). A proper component setup will involve the higher-frequency sounds coming from as close to the listening point as possible (i.e. in your a-pillar or front doors), mid-freqs coming from the rear deck and subs coming from the trunk. In the best of the best, this is always how it is set up.

3) Again, a good choice in subs. One thing to keep in mind when bashing brands of speakers is that there are multiple levels of production and specs to which speakers are built. If you put $30 speakers up front, you do not want $2000 subs in the trunk. This is largely a speaker-volume thing, but to truely achieve audio well-roundedness, you should build from the ground up. One last note, in this regard, a system will sound much more crisp with appropriate component speakers, but you should pay attention to what frequencies your head-unit/components are sending to what speakers and what the actual output of each individual speaker is going to be. Try to keep your speakers from doing putting in overtime by playing too broad a range in frequency, specifically if you are going the component route. A nice 2 or 3-way speaker will, more often than not, sound just as nice in a $1000 system as an entry-level component speaker. This is what I'm going to do, as per my budget and due to the fact that I do not wish to spend more than $1500 or so in audio on a $20k car ... That's just me.

4) A nice capacitor will help improve battery-life and audio-system performance in an amplified system. In regards to what type of amplifier you are going to need for your particular system, if this is not something you are familiar with then you do not want to take a suggestion on a whim. While the aforementioned amp is very nice for a variety of applications, there are a lot of electronic and engineering laws that come in to play when wiring your amplifier. Make sure you understand how bridges effect the resistance of the line traveling to which speaker, that you are sending an appropriate amount of power to each speaker, and that you are not unintentionally bridging your lines. Again, you do NOT want underpowered speakers. Buy less speaker if you aren't going to buy more amp. It won't sound better. Try to stay away from having to turn the gain up a bunch on the amp. It just kills speakers and while it may sound good now, if you took a recording of an underpowered speaker with its gain turned up now and compared it after 36 hours of playtime, you would notice the clear degredation in quality.

My .02c from a guy that has done a LOT of speaker installs.

Good luck to all.
 

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yeah its 6x8's in the rear door..
I added a 12 inch sub and amp along with a 6.5 inch dvd/mp3 player instead of the stock deck and its more than enough, You can hear my car from far away with the system up lol.
 

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I installed two 6x9 speakers in my rear deck powered by a 170 watt amp and you CAN hear a difference, I have two 12" kicker comps in my trunk and they sound nice (im not in denial, just broke :lol: I know they are NO W3 let alone a W7 JL rocks for sure!), but I can crank the bass and turn the fade to the back ad still hear nice sound. All together I would have to agree with Derek604s previous statement about the rear speakers, turn the fad to front and your imaging will not be as good... no matter what speakers you use it will sound more like it comes from the front if you use high end up front and leave the back factory. I will say that you do not need to spend nearly as much on rear speakers as you do on front if you don't want to, but if you have really crisp front and very faint rear then the imaging will simply not sound right.

As far as brands go the ones that where stated are great, however there are also many brands that make products that will sound just as good. Just make sure the brand is one that has a good rep and you will be fine. What really matters is what sounds best to you in your budget. I only mention this because JL and Infinity are two expensive brands and im broke :lol:. I personally chose pioneer A series components for door speakers since they are low cost (closeout for 99.99/pair), and they sound smooth and crisp... they DO lack in the low end, but that is what a sub is for.

Our cars use 6x8 speakers in the front doors and rear doors, however MOST 5x7 speakers will fit with no issues at all. You can use 6 1/2 speakers and 5 1/4 speakers ONLY with the use of an adapter bracket (as said if you buy from crutchfield.com its included free). The rear deck will easily fit 6x9s but it is a royal PITA to cut the hole, FYI there are holes pre cut into the metal so its just the thick padding on the deck. I will post pics later of my component speaker install where I made the factory tweeter bracket in the A pillar work for my new larger tweeters, as well as my 6x9 install.

Our head units are terrible there is no way around it a two band EQ is simply not enough. You have three options.

1)Live with it!

2)Use a signal converter to add external amps and/or external eq to your car (I would advise replacing the stock speakers to see the gains) This will let you keep the stock deck

3)The last option is to replace the deck altogether. If you do this you will need an adapter to make the deck fit and a wiring harness to plug that new bad boy into factory wiring. A good aftermarket deck will give you many options to adjust and control the sound in your fusion.

One hint is to use the HPF (high pass filter) and LPF (low pass filter)
The HPF will allow you to control where your door speakers stop, while the LPF will let you control where your sub will pick up. Using this takes a ton of strain off of the speakers, and makes your sub sound less muddy.

When picking out new speakers or an amp be sure to look at the RMS or continuous power. Don't pay much attention to the peak power because RMS is what the speaker/amp can handle/put out continuously rather than a second or so.

And that is my $0.02 on the topic! Good luck to all!

And Just remember

Front/rear door
-6x8 5x7 drop in replacement
-6.5 5.25 needs a cheap adapter plate
-Anything else needs to be custom installed

Rear deck will fit 6x9 after some damn annoying cutting

Factory deck size is pretty much a Double DIN
-Single DIN Deck will require a dash kit
-Double DIN after market deck will still require a dash kit without the lower pocket installed
 

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I'm about to replace all the door speakers, etc... I have heard that round comp. perform better than oval... Any truth to that? I've read a lotta stuff up here about the sizes, will 6.5's fit in the doors?
 

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yes 6.5 will fit with an adapter plate, as far as better sq, well that depends on the speakers and the setup you will be running, the larger 6x8 speakers will usually produce more bass so if you are not going to get subs i would stick with the factory size to get the max amount of surface area possible. However there are many more component 6.5 than 5x7 and 6x8 so if you will be adding subs and components 6.5 may be a good size for you.

I have 6.5 components up front and they are crisp and clear, but they do lack in the low end as do most comp setups, so a sub is needed to give the system more depth and fill out the low end. Plus comp setups are more expensive than a 2 or 3 way speaker

If you are not going to add a sub then id stay away from component speakers because you will be very disappointed with the depth, a good 2 3 or 4 way speaker wont be as crisp and accurate but more of the depth will be there.
 

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Hello, I'm new here but i have an answer to those who want a great sounding stereo and keep the head unit. Go to your ford dealer or fordaccesseries.com and ask about the bass tube. They they should be able offer you a bass tube from blaubunkt that plugs right in your ford head unit and puts out about 600w. I believe you can get it for under $600.00. Well at least here in cincinnati.....
 

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Hello, I'm new here but i have an answer to those who want a great sounding stereo and keep the head unit. Go to your ford dealer or fordaccesseries.com and ask about the bass tube. They they should be able offer you a bass tube from blaubunkt that plugs right in your ford head unit and puts out about 600w. I believe you can get it for under $600.00. Well at least here in cincinnati.....
 

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FYI...

http://www.metraonline/fitl.aspx

The dash kits are Metra 99-5812 (Single DIN w/ pocket), and 95-5812 (Double Din)
Wiring harnesses are 70-5521 for both systems, with or without subwoofers. The 70-5521 is a standard 70-5520 (Used for non-sub applications), with an additional dongle, used to integrate and power the sub amp. You will more than likely get a subwoofer "turn-on" pop, due to the remote output of aftermarket radios being 12v, and the factory is 5v. It's easily fixed, there are 2 methods. 1k Ohm resistor inline, doesn't work perfectly, but helps. The proper way, is 2 500 Ohm resistors. Hook both of them to the remote output of the radio, one to the turn-on wire for the amp, ground the other one.

Dash kit - 99-5812, Single DIN with pocket, or 95-5812, Double DIN.
Harness - 70-5521 for radio install, 70-5520AUX to retain factory AUX plug, and AFSI-01 to retain sync
Antenna adapter is a 40-CR10.

Speakers are all 6x8, except the rear deck which are 6x9 subs, and 2" tweeters in the front doors... The stock tweeters aren't 2", but you can fit up to a 2" in there easily. You can go larger, but you'd have to modify a bit, and a tweeter larger than 2" is nothing more than a flea market gimmick.

For those looking to upgrade to good speakers, that don't have the means to make 6x8 adapter plates, all Pioneer and Pioneer component systems come with 6x8 adapter plates. Universal ones don't work nearly as well, due to difference in the ACTUAL sizes of speakers. If you're using adapter plates, I'd HIGHLY recommend at least a speaker kit of Dynamat (P/N : 10415, ~$15 on eBay)
 

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A couple of questions from a new owner...

1. How can I tell if I have the "audiophile" stereo in my car? In my menu I can change from full car to driver only, etc, which the manual says is an option only for the "audiophile" system.

2. What is the "audiophile" system? From what I understand it only adds those two 6x9 and a 30w amp in the rear deck over the standard 6 speaker system.

3. If ford sells a sub for this car, have they already run power for an amp somewhere? I have put nice systems in every car I have owned, but wanted to stop for this one (what it has now is good enough), but if there is power already ran back there that means the hard work is done and I would be pretty tempted to add a sub.
 

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[quote author=garrett1812 link=topic=38085.msg3500073#msg3500073 date=1263647957]
If ford sells a sub for this car, have they already run power for an amp somewhere?
[/quote]Just because they ran power for "their" amp, doesn't mean it will work for yours. It all depends on the amperage of the new amp....
 

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if you have the premium sound or entertainment pack or w.e its called i think it comes with just those, and standard on all the models but s and se
 

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[quote author=frogger390 link=topic=38085.msg3932598#msg3932598 date=1297567908]
How do i know if my car has the audiophile system?
[/quote]

Sorry I know i'm a little late to the party, BUT you have the audio phile system if you have the 8 speaker setup. Front Door (Tweeters, speaker), back doors (speakers), Rear Deck Subs 2 6x9's, powered by a small amplifier behind the side wall carpeting in the trunk on the passenger side.

I have a 2007 with the system but i don't have an aux input… the 2008+'s should have them on the audiophiles.
 
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