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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wanted to create this post/thread to hopefully quell some of the numerous HID-related threads we have. Most of this will be copy-pasted from my and other members. Obviously HIDs are a very subjective matter and we all have our opinions. I'm writing this in a hotel room while watching Ashens on YouTube and eating curly fries with nacho cheese and wearing pajamas. (Ahh, the single life). I am not an expert in this, but I have thrown enough money at shiny bits to feel I can write a long post.

First things first, as bbf will point out, technically any non-OEM HID kit is illegal and carries the risk of damaging your car. You are trusting the task of converting 12v DC to 24,000v AC to a device cranked out in China for a couple pennies. Think about how much care goes into a ballast that can be designed, manufactured, marketed, and shipped for only $10 and still make a profit. Especially keep in mind that our headlamps are powered by the SJB, which happens to handle everything else on the car. Damaging the SJB is not a cheap fix.


Universal information
This is all the stuff that isn't specific to our vehicles, but HIDs in general.

Reflector vs Projector Housings
The older style headlamp assembly is "Reflector", similar to a flashlight. The back is a shiny dish to 'reflect' the light out.
The newer glass circle is 'Projector', which uses the curvature of the glass with a metal cutoff shield inside to project the light.
The 2006-2009 Ford Fusion is a reflector assembly. 2010+ Fusions, all Milans, and all MKZs are Projector.

Plug-and-Play vs Retrofit
The cheapest way to install HIDs is with a "plug and play" (PnP) kit that uses bulbs that fit in your stock assembly. Prices are generally $30-$90. Coliquelly known as eBay HID's, they are very cheaply built and often do not last. The cheapest ones tend to fail quickly and good luck getting any warranties honored. As easy as they can advertise "Lifetime Warranty", they can just as easily ignore your emails when the device fails. Of all the brands, members here have had the most luck with VVME. If you purchase Xentec, I'm sorry. Xentec is the 1995 Kia Rio of ballasts. Because the stock headlamp was designed for halogen bulbs, you will always increase the amount of glare in the eyes of oncoming traffic. There is no way around this without doing a retrofit.

seasonalskier said:
But ANYONE trying to say any of these kits don't cause extra glare they are hopped up on some very powerful drugs because they do. And the more wattage you put in there the exponentially worse those glares and flareups become.

EDIT: hell even the gen 1.5 bulbs create glare and flareups because they are HALOGEN projectors, not HID projectors. (And yes there is a huge difference)
Retrofits are more expensive and time-consuming, but the results are worth the money. You will have to open your headlamp assembly and either replace the existing projector with a new one, or make a custom mount. The only place I can recommend for retrofitting supplies is www.theretrofitsource.com . A typical kit may cost $300-400 but will provide second-to-none light output with less glare than the factory halogens and is significantly more reliable. Please note that it's not guranteed to be 100% reliable -- even OEM ballasts fail now and again.


Wattage
Kits typically come in either 35w or 50/55w power outputs. Our factory halogens are 55w, but a 35w HID will put out more usable light. The halogen bulb is incredibly ineffecient. It's more or less a small heater that gets hot enough to create light as a byproduct. HID, on the other hand, creates a plasma arc that generates a lot of light. I would not recommend going above 35w for HIDs. I am personally running 50w ballasts in my car and I feel they are too bright. If I'm driving on a hill, I get flashed constantly from cars coming up the hill under my cutoff. Learn from my mistake, stick with 35w.


Color temperature
Expressed as degrees Kelvin (or K), this will reflect the color we see it as. A quick rundown of temperatures and their applications:
3000K: Golden yellow, good for foglights
4300K: OEM White. Technically only legal shade
5000K: Crystal White. Removes that slight yellow
6000K: White with a slight hint of blue
8000K: Blue. Don't.
10000K+: "I was dropped on my head as a kid and want everyone else to suffer"

Because of how the human eye works, you will have decreased usable light the higher you go above 5000K. You will also strain your eyes to see in the dark. Not to mention look like an idiot.

bbf2530 said:
Just as an FYI for those who do not know...the "K value" is the heat temperature or color, not light output, so higher k is not good for those who desire better light output. So, that being said, we can tell you that anything over 5000k gives a bluer or purpler light, which the human eye can not use. So the higher you go above 4300-5000k, the lower the "...output of light...".


So what are my options here?
I have a 2006-2009 Ford Fusion and want to install PnP HIDs in the factory housing
Too damn bad. It'll glare and I cannot in good conscience advocate doing this. Purchase an aftermarket housing or do a proper retrofit.

I have a 2006-2009 Ford Fusion and want to retrofit a different projector into my factory housing
That's great! Unfortunately, it's outside the scope of this post. Here's BlackFusion07's retrofit to give an idea of the work necessary.

I have a Ford Fusion (2010+) or Mercury Milan (All years) and want to install PnP HIDs in the factory projector
While certainly doable, it will increase the amount of glare. The factory projectors are specifically designed for halogen bulbs and will not properly direct the output from an HID bulb. You can aim the headlamp lower, but your high beam will suffer and it won't change the uneven lighting. If you cannot do a proper retrofit because of tools, experience, or other circumstances... your best bet is the VVME 35w kit with relays. You may end up with "Check Headlamp" messages. I have not found a solution that works for everybody, so I have no advice.

I have a Ford Fusion (2010+) or Mercury Milan (All years) and want to retrofit a different projector into my factory housing
Now you're talking. There are plenty of retrofit threads available to learn from. I recommend the Hella EvoX-R and Morimoto Elite D2S 35w combination with Morimoto H1 Relay Harness. The EvoX-R will practically bolt-on in place of the factory housing with minor trimming required on 2006-2009 Milans. It'll look perfectly stock when parked, but light output will be beautiful.


Relay vs Non-Relay
Because ballasts draw a lot of power, it is a good idea to use relays. The purpose of the relay is that the power the system usually sends out to power the bulb will instead activate the relay, which will close the connection from the ballast directly to the battery. This gives the ballast smooth, uninterrupted power -- as much as it needs to work. THis is a lot safer than hoping the ballasts won't draw too much from the SJB and damage it. The only downside is that a relay consumes little power and the SJB may think the bulb has failed, resulting in a CHECK HEADLAMP display. Some people use resistors. I personally tied my foglights into the headlamp circuit and tapped in the relays. This gives the SJB a proper 'headlamp' load while activating the relays for the headlamps. Drawings would help but I'm still in a hotel with no pen.

There have also been reports of non-relay installations damaging the wiper module, resulting in either failure of windshield wiper function or autolamps running regardless of time of day.

Bottom line: It is much safer to run relays on our cars, due to risk of damage to either the Smart Junction Box or Wiper module

This thread is useless without pics
Well that's not nice. I tried to make it useful text-wise, but I suppose an image gallery can help illustrate what's going on. UNFORTUNATELY the new forum software sucks and I can only have one thumbnail per line, so this'll look like crap.


VVME 5000K PnP HIDs in factory Milan Projectors.


A comparison of a projector retrofit vs stock projector. On the left is a Hella EvoX-R with Morimoto 5five. On the right is stock projector, VVME 35w.


A better shot of the cutoff on the EvoX-R. Note that I still needed to rotate it to make it level.





Now here's where I started getting all fancy. A proper comparison of factory halogens vs VVME 35w vs VVME 55w. I happened to have three OEM Milan projectors.


Stock 55w halogen.


35w HID


55w HID

At this point you are probably saying "That cutoff actually looks pretty good!". Go back up and look at the first picture. When the projector is exposed, it looks fine. Put it in the housing and it loses a lot of definition.



Halogen vs HID.


EvoX-R. Note how there is virtually NO light above the cutoff (ignoring the garage door opener's light)


However, even though the EvoX-R has a very clean cutoff, there is still unavoidable glare simply caused by the design of our headlamps and cannot be avoided


And finally, the end result of installing EvoX-R's in my 08 Milan. Compare to the "VVME in Stock Projectors" above. First image is low beam, second image is bixenon high beam

(No thumbnail) Another EvoX-R, modified to have a bluer cutoff

It's getting late but I will update this as I see fit later.
Feel free to add thoughts and opinions.

And please, moderator, remove some of the now-irrelevant stickies in this subforum. Of the 13 stickies, only 5 seem to be sticky-worthy. No offense to those thread starters, but license plate LEDs are trivial at best, and the backup-lite mod is nice but not worthy of being at the very top of every single page.

-Ahanix
 

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For what it's worth... not all projector housings are crap. Some can be used with PnP kits and still offer no glare or scattered light. My L200 projectors for example, look exactly like a Morimoto. I am also wearing pyjamas and drinking wine while watching TV so I'm not about to go outside and take pictures lol.

As for the HID vs Halogen in *HALOGEN REFLECTOR* assemblies, well - the pics below speak for themselves. 2006 Mustang GT (HID) vs 2007 Mustang GT (Halogen).









Lots of glare!
 

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Absolutely! The more people that see them the better.

When he put them in, we drove around and it honestly looked like he had his high beams on. Houses, buildings, everything above the road was lit up. I mentioned that maybe he should consider angling them down a bit. When we got back, I asked him for a side-by-side just to compare and see how far off they were and whether the angle of the lights was the culprit... sure enough, not the case at all.

HID's in halogen reflector housing is a BAD idea.
 

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Hi ahanix.:wavey: Excellent write-up! Thank you for taking the time to provide, in one place, all of this information for us.

Actually specifically signed-on just now to "sticky" this thread, but then saw someone wisely did so already.

Thanks again and good luck.:cheers:
 

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So I have the Milan 2010 Hybrid Premier. I want a White light(which is 5000k right?)not necessarily blue. From reading above I now know that my car has Projector lights. So just in case I didn't read correctly. I'm not recommended to replace the Light Bulb with a Bulk of 5000K right? And what I'm recommended to do is retro fit it?

Thanks for all your efforts on this sticky. Awesome job.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You CAN just do eBay HID bulbs/ballast with relays, but the light will be a bit splotchy.
Very similar to this

Spending a bit more time/money and doing the retrofit will result in a much brighter, optimal light. The projector itself is a direct-fit replacement. Just need to open the headlamps and wire relays.
With EvoX-R, you can expect this: Dropbox

And yes, 5000K is what I run. Pure white, cutoff can be made blue for that "luxury shimmer"

Main post edited, revised information on relays
 

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I have been searching Google and have not found what I am looking for. Where has worked for you guys to mount your ballasts for HID's? I put in LED Turn Signals and mounted the Resistors right under the headlights toward the center of the car but I'm not sure there is room for a ballast as well
 

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I have been searching Google and have not found what I am looking for. Where has worked for you guys to mount your ballasts for HID's? I put in LED Turn Signals and mounted the Resistors right under the headlights toward the center of the car but I'm not sure there is room for a ballast as well
I've never mounted the ballasts ever on my cars, I've had 6 different vehicles with HID's, hope this helps...
 

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I have a question. I purchased my 2010 fusion se about 2 months ago and it was already equipped with DDM tuning 55wyatt 6k hids in the headlights.

Can I just purchase the Evox-R projectors and continue using the ddm tuning set up? I would go ahead and purchase a relay as well.
 

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ive always wanted to put evo projectors in my car but im bad with the fancy labor work for them and dont want to mess them up, if only i could swap the projectors with my fog lights haha. at least the 200$ hid set i have for my low beams are more than adequate to light up the road
 

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ahanix1989
i had a random thought just recently, i dont remember if it was in this forum group where i saw someone showing a replacement for the projector glass, showing stock is slightly hazy and if you buy the same glass type in the evo or other ones of quality. meaning the projector lens is actually clear… would changing just this, make the big difference, possibly saving money on buying the entire projector if i just make the glass the same?

with the clear glass it would give a better cut off from what i remember from the pictures the guy had, almost seems like it would do a very similar job...what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
'Clear Lens' swaps are a common modification. The factory lens is 'frosted'. The only notable difference is the cutoff will be crisper. Light distribution will stay the same, however, since the overall lens shape does not change.
The Retrofit Source is your best bet for clear lenses. I believe Fusions are a 3.0" lens... probably closer to the Mazda3's.
 
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