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What kind of signal light flasher does the Fusion use? I work on semis for a living and whenever I upgrade a truck with L.E.D.'s I always install a Heavy duty flasher, instead of resistors, so the signal lights don't blink too fast. I just was thinking if they use a normal two prong flasher, that would be easier than re-wiring your lights. I've never taken my dash apart to look, anyone know?
 
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[quote author=kevjur link=topic=85808.msg1626497#msg1626497 date=1186705621]
What kind of signal light flasher does the Fusion use? I work on semis for a living and whenever I upgrade a truck with L.E.D.'s I always install a Heavy duty flasher, instead of resistors, so the signal lights don't blink too fast. I just was thinking if they use a normal two prong flasher, that would be easier than re-wiring your lights. I've never taken my dash apart to look, anyone know?
[/quote]


Just to let you know, that was the most well thought out and smart sounding paragraph I've ever heard. Unlike me, I just used the words "smart sounding" together.
 

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[quote author=RymanH24 link=topic=85808.msg1626535#msg1626535 date=1186706464]
[quote author=kevjur link=topic=85808.msg1626497#msg1626497 date=1186705621]
What kind of signal light flasher does the Fusion use? I work on semis for a living and whenever I upgrade a truck with L.E.D.'s I always install a Heavy duty flasher, instead of resistors, so the signal lights don't blink too fast. I just was thinking if they use a normal two prong flasher, that would be easier than re-wiring your lights. I've never taken my dash apart to look, anyone know?
[/quote]


Just to let you know, that was the most well thought out and smart sounding paragraph I've ever heard. Unlike me, I just used the words "smart sounding" together.
[/quote] :shock: :eh: :rofl:
Now that shit's funny
 

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While on the topic of flashers, I am interested in replacing the one in my Fusion as I don't like the pitch the ticking makes when the signal is on. I do like to one in the Mazda 6 though. Does anyone know if the two are compatible? That is, can I go to the parts store, order one for the Mazda 6 and install it in the Fusion?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Im not sure but I think it just uses a multi function relay. The basic part # for a flasher is a 13350 and it doesnt pull anything up on a fusion only thing I can find is multi function relays that dont give specifics of what they do because Ford uses the same relays for many different things the 2 possibilties it could be are a black 40 amp 5 terminal multi function or a grey 70 amp multifunction? Hope this helps!
 

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Sorry guys the Fusion/Milan/Zephyr don't use a seperate flasher relay it is internal to the Smart Junction Box. I looked at the schematic for the flashers and can't find a seperate relay.
 

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You will need resistors reguardless or a 555 voltage or amp regulator since the diodes can only take so much of amparage and voltage. Most common L.E.Ds can take a max of 3v. Beyond that, they will blow out like a missle. Sure you can put a nice relay on to slow down the pulse of the flash but remember, you are still feeding those L.E.Ds 12 volts.

Thats why most heavy duty trucks have at least a few blown L.E.Ds on their brake lights and turn lights. Because most people just run heavy relays and dont bother to use Ohms law to value down the voltage and amps going to the L.E.Ds.

Sorry I a big electronics geek.
 

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3V is about right for a single LED, but not when you have a bunch of them in series (or series-parallel) with current-limiting resistor(s). The burn-out of a group usually occurs when one shorts within a group of them, commonly due to water incursion. 14.4V/~2.5V drop per LED = 5 LEDs in series with a 330Ohm current-limiting resistor. If you build it right, you can run them off of the alternator with no problems. The fast-flash occurs because the LEDs draw significantly less current than a bulb, making them a low-power device. Power = I^2 x R, and LED's have low I^2. The flasher sees the low power draw, and thinks a bulb is blown.

Need that 330-Ohm resistor in there though (per group) as stated, but all after market LED tail-lamps have them built in.

+14V ==>330Ohm=>+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-+LED-Gnd would work for basic red and amber LEDs, but not for blue.

Unless you run your own electronic flasher relay off the turn-signal stalk, you have to get the load-equalizing resistors to make the Check Left Turn Signal message to go away. But they're like $7 each anyways and easy to install.

To change the "tick" you can add material over the piezo speaker under the dash to change the pitch to a degree, or put electrical tape over it to make it quieter. (On my Focus, it was above the fuses, never looked in the fusion)

Piezo speaker making the "clicking noise" for turn-signal.
 

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aaah good report seawolf.

But remember it matters if you do series since the total resistance is equal to the sum of the individual resistance.

and parallel circuit when loads are placed in parallel circuit, resistance goes down & current goes up.

as for the series-parallel the resistance of the series portion affects current flow on the entire circuit.

You will still need a regulator reguardless. Because voltage will decrease through a load but current will remain strong, and thats one of things we are trying to control. So thats why I love the 555 regulator. It simply controls the power flow trough the circuit.

But thats good seawolf.Also remember that you cant always use a 330OHM value resistor all the time, because each L.E.D is diff and will operate under certain Voltage. It wont be always 3v. And the type of circuit you will run. Just remember Kirchoffs
Law.

Man we should create a complete Flux L.E.D tail ligh for the Fusions. Let me know if your up for it.
 

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I prefer the Thevenin law over Kirchoff myself :lol: I did agree you need a resistor, though. You're write-up made it sound like LEDs won't work in automotive applications due to the 12V battery and the 3V LED...I was trying to clarify.

330Ohm would be fine to tell people to use as a current-limiting resistor in series with most red or amber LEDs...it gets trickier with blues, whites, and the noobs: Flux, cray etc...

I would love to go at flux-based system. In fact, I started buying 3W flux-LED flashlight bulbs to do just that, but had not decided how to go about the running light vs brake light. OEMs use different LEDs for each task, and I was thinking about doing the same. Fluxes in the center, clear-red LEDs in a triangle pattern outlining most the inner pattern.

BTW: The 555 is commonly known as a timer...were you talking about a PWM circuit to control LED output? Because you could just use an LM2575 to control up to 1A of LEDs :)
 
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