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has anyone had to replace a defective caliper yet?, have 52K on my 06 sel, and turns out that caliper is bad (see my dba rotor and green stuff pads post). just had meineke look at brake and put new pads on all four and had same problem with stuck piston. thought they fixed it again, and went highway speeds for 40 miles and when got back to them for 3rd time today, left rear rotor was 329 degrees and the other 3 were 140 degrees. i know it can't be the paint job that was done prior to new rotors and pads being put on as brakes worked fine. didn't notic problem until installation of rotors and pads by a different meineke shop. not going to invest in painting this caliper, though as don't have time to waste nor money to rent a car for a day.
 

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[quote author=kiddoc link=topic=116329.msg2432594#msg2432594 date=1214935222]
has anyone had to replace a defective caliper yet?, have 52K on my 06 sel, and turns out that caliper is bad (see my dba rotor and green stuff pads post). just had meineke look at brake and put new pads on all four and had same problem with stuck piston. thought they fixed it again, and went highway speeds for 40 miles and when got back to them for 3rd time today, left rear rotor was 329 degrees and the other 3 were 140 degrees. i know it can't be the paint job that was done prior to new rotors and pads being put on as brakes worked fine. didn't notic problem until installation of rotors and pads by a different meineke shop. not going to invest in painting this caliper, though as don't have time to waste nor money to rent a car for a day.
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Alright bro here's what you do, go into Meineke and b1tch like hell, telling them that they didn't push the brake piston in the caliper all the way and bolted the caliper on with it seized in place. Tell them that they are paying for your new left rear rotor, set of new rear brake pads because they are no built to withstand that kind of heat. Tell them normal heat is what the other three were and that it's not your responsibily they didn't spin the wheel while bolted tight to the car to insure the brakes weren't seized, but that it became your problem. I've had this happen to me on my T-bird when I had it, and i painted the calipers and anchors on it. They have the same style twist and press in piston in the brake caliper. You couldn't spin the wheel with it bolted up, but if you took the wheel off, you could turn the rotor. It was because the piston wasn't in all the way and was binding. You might try taking the wheel off first bro, and seeing if that's what it is, and if so put there asses in the wringer and make it hurt. And if not:

raise vehicle, remove lr wheel (5 19mm bolts), pinch rubber brake line 1 inch away from where it comes from the main metal line. remove (2) either 12 or 13mm brake caliper bolts, pry between caliper and brake anchor to remove pads ( be careful not to ruin any thin metal guides on the underside middle of the caliper. Your pads will be sitting in the brake anchor still with the caliper off, if they fall out when you take the caliper off, put them back making sure your retainers are on the sides of the pads where they sit in the brake anchor. Notice the 2 slots on the caliper piston, the tab the back of the inner brake pad will fit into this, you may have to line the new caliper piston up with the tab on your pad by turning it clockwise (NEVER counterclockwise). Remove the brake line from the caliper. The banjo bolt going into the caliper is a 14mm I believe. bolt the new caliper up once the old one is off the line and swap the line to the new caliper you have mounted back on the anchor. Make sure to re-use the copper washers that are on both sides of the "block" that the banjo bolt goes through on the caliper end of the brake line. Once tight, crack the bleeder open 1 full turn, remove your brake line pinching device (rag wrapped vise-grips,hose pliers,whatever), then go take the cap off your brake fluid reservoir and let it gravity bleed for 5 min, making sure to not let your brake reservoir run out of fluid. close the bleeder, and re-install the wheel.

BTW , Your cool painting the caliper, just do it with the pistons pushed in and with the slider pins and face of the caliper piston taped off.

On a side note, now that I have typed all this crap, I just now saw that you posted this July 1st. You are probably already fixed by now. S*(&^T!!!!


Oh well, maybe someone will need to put a rear caliper on there fusion someday and you can send them a link to this thread. L8R.
 

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[quote author=kiddoc link=topic=116329.msg2432594#msg2432594 date=1214935222]
Oh well, maybe someone will need to put a rear caliper on there fusion someday and you can send them a link to this thread. L8R.
Thirteen years later, I thank you, sir.
 
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