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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

I picked up a 2007 Dark Blue Metallic SEL v6 a few says ago. I have to say, initial impressions are awesome. I am curious, though, what others thought about how to go about breaking in the engine. So far, I have ~300mi on the car and the engine has not seen above 3,000 - 3500RPMs, but I have been putting good load on the engine. Some say 500mi to break-in, some say up to 3,000miles. I'm kind-of a leadfoot when it comes to every day driving, and I have to say it's killing me a little not being able to "open 'er up", but I want proper ring seals. Any advice? What did others do?

~Seawolf
 

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I was told when i rebuilt a few engines to put your foot into it from say 35 to 55 MPH to set the rings. But those where older engines, by older engine I'm talking 70-80's carburetored engines, and don't over rev the engine. Take it to 5k or so on full throttle twice I'd say. But remember if you need the power to pass or something don't be afraid to floor it becuase todays engine are make much better and can handle that much sooner then those of yesteryear. In fact, according to the chevy dealership the corvettes are ready to race when shipped, no break-in.
 

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Just drive it how ever you want, if you dont drive it hard at first, I can tell ya the porters and the guys unloading them at the rail yard did, lol. Theres not really any break in needed anymore, rings and what not are better than they used to be, so if they dont seat in right away, they arent going to
 

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Have you ever seen the end of line testing in an assembly plant? Or the way the people drive the cars off the line? I have seen them neutral drop the cars off the line with the tires smoking. Then you have people going through squeek and rattle driving tests on a special track. Then they hand the car off to the shipping company and you know they are not being gentle, lots of cars to load quickly. The Ford M10 cars probably get driven somewhat hard. (M10s are cars taken home by plant people, usually salaried managers, they take home a different car every night - If you live near a plant and a neighbor has a different current production M-plate car of the same model in their driveway every night...)

Then the dealer gets the car. I watch how those kids drive them around the lot.

Assume that by the time it gets to you, it is broken in. Go drive it like you stole it.
 

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Ya, don't be easy on it but don't redline it either. The basic break-in ocurs in 200 miles. You also might want to dump the oil at 1,000 miles. (I dumped mine at 500 miles 8)). There's no need to change the filter 'till 5K.
 

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Well, when I got my Fusion it had 19000 miles on it because it once belonged to Enterprise, so it is broken in times broken in. On my way to work, I have a 3 mile stretch that I play Nascar on, whizzing by the others. I love the way the Fusion handles!! And now that the CAI has FINALLY been developed for the I4, watch out, because I will be coming even faster!! :absinthe: :agbullet: :rb:
 

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"belonged to Enterprise, so it is broken in times broken in. "


Oh, you have no idea. I had a Five Hundred rental on a business trip in Iowa. The cruise was set at 110 mph for some of the highway stretches (at the speed limiter). The e-brake was sweet for u-turns on the wet brick streets in one section of Omaha. Wide open throttle most of the time. Nice car.

Definitely change the engine oil at 1k miles, you never know what kind of crap was left in it from the engine plant assembly. I have seen transmissions fail because a cigarette butt was stuck in a valve body bore! :D How it got through end of line testing... :dur:
 

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[quote author=cos link=topic=71162.msg1254259#msg1254259 date=1173290793]
no need to change the filter 'till 5K.
[/quote]

PLEASE tell me youre joking.
 

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[quote author=RoushFusion link=topic=71162.msg1254832#msg1254832 date=1173304630]
[quote author=cos link=topic=71162.msg1254259#msg1254259 date=1173290793]
no need to change the filter 'till 5K.
[/quote]

PLEASE tell me youre joking.
[/quote]

Dealer tried to tell me that as well when i went for the first oil changed at 2500K they said to bring it back at 5K i told them no they are going to change it now or they can have the car back so they changed it and i watched them to make sure it was done and done right.
 

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RoushFusion,

Absolutely! Ford specs oil & filter changes every 5K. Toyota does too but most every other car co stil specs every 7,500 miles. Do you know more then they do? Do you actually believe there is real world benefit to changing the oil filter any sooner? What evidence do you have? Did you know that some BMWs recommend the first oil change at 20K? Did you know the new Civic specs 5W20 (dino, not syn) oil changes every 10K and a filter change every 20K? If you'd like to learn more about lubes and filters go to THE source - BITOG.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0
 

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i have done a lot of research on the internet about oil life. I found a great website that said even dino oil can be easily stretched to 12k. and synthetic closer to 20k. Did you guys no that my recommended oil change for me and 5000 km's. Bull if u ask me. My car does probly 80 % highway driving. I let the dealer do my first change at 3500 km and then when i did the next one myself at 8500 i found out the grease monkey at ford just put pliers on my oil cap and then used the wrong wrench for the drain plug in the cap and begun to strip it plus my car was not washed, so three strikes they're out. We also have the 6.0 diesels and have had 9 turbos in the two trucks and a lot of time in the shop because they didn't do the job right. The mechanic even tried to say the truck was overheating because of the custom grille on it. I could write an essay about the dirt i have on ford mechanics, i dont trust them one bit working on my car even after i gave them a chance to redeem themselves but they blew that to.
 

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[quote author=cos link=topic=71162.msg1254920#msg1254920 date=1173307191]
RoushFusion,

Absolutely! Ford specs oil & filter changes every 5K. Toyota does too but most every other car co stil specs every 7,500 miles. Do you know more then they do? Do you actually believe there is real world benefit to changing the oil filter any sooner? What evidence do you have? Did you know that some BMWs recommend the first oil change at 20K? Did you know the new Civic specs 5W20 (dino, not syn) oil changes every 10K and a filter change every 20K? If you'd like to learn more about lubes and filters go to THE source - BITOG.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0


[/quote]



Im not doubting the service intervals, btw, dont compare ford to jap stuff, thanks. Anyway, youre a complete nut job if you think changing the oil and not the filter is ok. If by chance there was any debris from the engine build, and you put new oil in and didnt change the filter, would you want to chance getting all that in your new oil? Probably not. I bet if you cut the paper away from the cartridge and spread it out, you would find some kind of contamination from break in. You can do what you want, but even if you change it at 500 miles, change the filter. As some of you brag, they only cost $4, think about it
 

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[quote author=dirkafusion link=topic=71162.msg1255416#msg1255416 date=1173321321]
We also have the 6.0 diesels and have had 9 turbos in the two trucks and a lot of time in the shop because they didn't do the job right. The mechanic even tried to say the truck was overheating because of the custom grille on it. I could write an essay about the dirt i have on ford mechanics, i dont trust them one bit working on my car even after i gave them a chance to redeem themselves but they blew that to.
[/quote]

I used to work on a ton of 6.0s at the dealer. Tell me, how often did you change the oil, was it severe duty, or just normal driving around town? Lack of maintance kills 6.0 injectors and turbos, trust me, I know. What was the issue why the turbos were replaced? Lot rot? Bearing or turbine failure? I just wanna know some details, the 6.0 has some bad rap, but maybe I can clear it up for you
 

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Roush,

If by chance there was any debris from the engine build, and you put new oil in and didnt change the filter, would you want to chance getting all that in your new oil?
The dirt in the filter is in the filter - trapped in the filter media and there it stays - it's not coming out and getting pumped through the engine. If it was then Honda wouldn't recommend filter changes EVERY OTHER OIL CHANGE on their vaunted Civic, would they? Oh and for the record, my engine AND transaxle are what you refer to as "jap stuff".
 

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I still break-in every new car that I get. Its not so much the motor that I worry about, its the tranny. I give it a good few hundred miles drive it a little harder, but not like some of these careless teenage porters, for the next 1000 miles. About 1500miles I change the oil to something I prefer, and go onto its regular maintenance. Its a tradition that I have had with my last 12 cars, and each one has lasted well past 250k miles. I always change the stock oil sooner because I'm never sure of what is used originally, nor am I sure that I'm as confidant with it as I am with my preferred brand/type.

Its better to be safe than sorry. You can't assume all problems or blessings on luck. The benefits of a proper break-in could save you. While not always needed, its just better to take care of your vehicle than act like a high schooler that just got their license, regardless of how it was treated in its first few miles. Don't worry though, miles add up, and before you know it, you'll be chirping every stop light on a cool summer day with a fine looking passenger at your side.
 

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[quote author=Crystallas link=topic=71162.msg1255880#msg1255880 date=1173339389]
and before you know it, you'll be chirping every stop light on a cool summer day with a fine looking passenger at your side.
[/quote]
I need one of those fine looking passengers. My car did not come with that option, but I hope to add one aftermarket. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the info so far, I really appreciate it. :D
 

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I have one of those passengers, it's a great option, best one you can get if you ask me. :)
As for the oil change When I changed mine i went to full synthetic, not that crap that says synthetic but isn't. Just so you guys know, when it says semi-synthetic means it's 0% synthetic, they just refine it a little more to be classified as synthetic. The reason that the BMWs and such usually have such a high oil change interval is because they often come from the factory with synthetic. But I too agree to change the oil filter every oil change too. In the summer i drive in some dusty areas now and then and don't like to chance it.
 
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