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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have noticed a few weeks back, while washing my Fusion, that I have crum size nicks on my hood.
Does anyone have any suggestions on buffering them out?

Also, I have faint hair line scratches on the fiberglass part of my windows.
Is there a chance of correcting this as well?
 

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[quote author=Mister Fusion link=topic=42324.msg621568#msg621568 date=1142571003]
I have noticed a few weeks back, while washing my Fusion, that I have crum size nicks on my hood.
Does anyone have any suggestions on buffering them out?

Also, I have faint hair line scratches on the fiberglass part of my windows.
Is there a chance of correcting this as well?
[/quote]

where is there fiberglass on the windows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was referring to the glossy black paneling inbetween the front and back windows.

The nicks are quite possibly from flying rocks, since I'm on the highway a lot.
 

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[quote author=Mister Fusion link=topic=42324.msg621568#msg621568 date=1142571003]
I have noticed a few weeks back, while washing my Fusion, that I have crum size nicks on my hood.
Does anyone have any suggestions on buffering them out?

Also, I have faint hair line scratches on the fiberglass part of my windows.
Is there a chance of correcting this as well?
[/quote]

For everyone getting tired of my post about different things I'm not trying to sound like some kind of know it all, just experienced. And the subject of paint is my business.

The nicks you see on your hood, if they fall below the outter layer of clear coat is something you can't buff out. Don't even try to have this done it just won't help. Unfortunately the baecoat has been blasted off by a rock or abrasive ie: sand. Unless your willing to have the hood re-coated again a stop gap measure is touch the nicks using a good quality touch up material. The stuff you buy from the dealership is plain crap. Basically a laquer product that will last for a month. Duplicolor touch up pens work well and is a little better than the dealer mess. However you'll need to clean the spots thoughly before slapping the paint on, you need to remove any wax or polished from those spots if you've recently done so. The paint will not stick to wax and it will not lay down correctly if it is on there. The best start is to use regular rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and clean down inside the paint chip to remove all the nasties, use a lint free cloth to clean out any fuzz from the q-tip. If you have enamel reducers or cheap laquer thinner around use that instead but if not Alcohol works well. The paint pens have a sharp enough tip that you can get it right down in the chip, use enough color to cover the primer underneath that you can probaly see. Don't use color to fill the chip just cover in color, allow it to dry for a half hour and then do the same thing will a clear coat pen, use this material to fill the chip to a level plain with the rest of the paint. Dont wax for a couple of days to allow this stuff to cure out. Will it look like a factory finish "Hell No" but it will be the same color and the metal will be protected. If your not willing to do this apply a small dab of clear finger nail polish in the nick to prevent corrossion.
Simply put, your going to get chips and nicks if you drive, prolonging the need for a professional refinish paint job costing thousands of dollars and be extended for under $10.00 and a little time.
As for the appliques between the front and rear side glass, those pieces are Aluminum coated with a very thin layer of paint, if polishing won't take out the scratches take it to a body shop and have them apply some better refinish clear coat if you feel that area is going to be abused.

Hope some of this helps

Marc, Business Account Manager, E.I.DuPont
 
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