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Discussion Starter #1
Today I replaced the thermostat again and I am getting it all back together. It's a little tougher now working in the cold. My garage isn't insulated or heated, and with the wind chills near 0 right now, it makes for slow going. After cleaning everything up well with brake cleaner and compressed air, it looks like I still have an oil leak at the back of the engine underneath, but I can see now that it seems to be coming from the corner of the oil pan closest to the driver. Looks like I will be dropping the pan as well before all of this is done. Ford recommends a product like Permatex "The Right Stuff" to seal the oil pan with, correct? Should I used the black, or the import light grey?
 

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I'm going to go with the black because it is the one I have the experience with. I took the oil pan off today and it is really a tight fit between the transmission and the front timing cover. I really wonder how well the gasket material is going to stay on when I work it up into where it is supposed to go. I am going to try and stick a small electric heater under the car to warm up the engine and put the cold oil pan in. It might give me a little extra room. ?
 

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My method worked pretty well. The oil pan got a bead around the perimeter, and I also did a bead on the back of the engine for good measure, as well as a bead on the timing cover after I cleaned out the groove on it with a dental pick and some solvent. A couple of taps with a hammer on a strong part of the pan casting, and the pan went right home. I torqued the 10mm bolts to 200 inch pounds. The 13mm bolts to the transmission got about 40 foot pounds, and the bolts to the timing cover were snug with my 8mm ratcheting wrench because there wasn't much else I could fit in there. I'll let it cure with the heater on it while I sleep, and fill it with oil later today.

Now if it still leaks, I know the rear main is the culprit. There is actually a small groove in the casting that drains oil out of the area by the clutch. I also cleaned up the inside of the bell-housing as much as I could get to, just to have a clean basis for future comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The oil is still leaking out of the area behind the bellhousing. I was hoping to not have to pull the engine to remedy my oil leak, but it looks like I still need to replace the rear main seal. At least the new thermostat fixed the CEL. It went off on the second drive cycle that I put it through on the test drives.

It is so bitter cold here right now and snowy too. I am stuck waiting to fix this for quite a while. I guess I will just be adding a little bit of oil every couple of days until it is fixed.
 

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park over a pan with kitty litter. not the time of year to mess with it imho. every couple days sound more than a minor leak tho
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would have to agree with you. I am tired of working on cars when it is this cold. I need to build my heated 3 car garage soon. : )
 

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You have the 3.0L?

Looks like mine is leaking on the passenger side corner of the pan. Right where it looks like a bunch of sealant was squeezed out.

How hard was it to drop the pan?

Thanks
Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2.3 oil leak

I have chased this leak and it is getting worse. I have the 2.3 I-4. I have been doing some research online and have found considerable evidence that there are defects in engine castings for the 2.3. So far, I have found that they were corrected with the 2.5.

I may be in the market for a 2.5 6 speed manual combo for my car if anyone has one they would be willing to part with.

I found an engine locally for about $300 with 42,000 miles that needs the timing cover replaced. Are they the same as on the 2.3? The reason for my inquiry is tonight on my way home from school, the serpentine tensioner assembly came apart and flew off. Before I realized it, I overheated my engine on the freeway. I limped it home afterwards. I have ordered a new tensioner and idler pulley, but this engine may be finished at 190,000 miles. With all of the oil leaking onto my clutch from the rear main since last summer, I think it is shot as well. Has anyone swapped the whole 2.5 shebang into an older Fusion? I know the intake needs an adapter plate, but what else is involved?
 

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I got the all data info for the oil pan gasket reseal job. It involves backing the transmission bell housing bolts 5mm out no further, or damage to transmission can occur. Slide transmission to the drivers side, this give you clearance to slide oil pan out, clean surfaces, apply gasket sealant, and reinstall pan. I just finished this job. Worked for me
 
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