FordFusionClub.com banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
buying NOS Dry kit used from a friend, with a 65 shot jet. installing next work week through the nights. Laptop tuning with the SCT Wideband on a laptop after the install and running the car @ Thundervalley Raceway in Noble, Oklahoma Sunday April 22nd. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Wish me luck, this will be the first time the car will see 110 octane.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Let's hope your car dosen't go KaBooM :p

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,632 Posts
A 65 should be no problem, I have personaly ran a 80 shot on a 100% bone stock 2.3 duratec. Only issue i was having was the clutch slipping going into 4th at WOT. Truck was sprayed atleast 60-70 times. Hope it all goes well, keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Just make sure you don't spray until after the torque converter locks up and you should be fine. Nitrous is so easy to use as a power adder...but I just hate the idea of having X sprays (like ten) then my performance goes away until I fill the bottle, then I have X sprays again. I really liked my Forced-Induction Focus for power-on-demand. Let me know how the NOS works out for ya.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[quote author=pssdmilan link=topic=73878.msg1360462#msg1360462 date=1177396771]
we're waiting to hear how you did at the track!
[/quote]

Didn't go to Noble, too hungover from Sat. night and kit wasn't on yet. I've been working on it this week and driving the other vehicle from work. So far I have the ran the switch, feed line and couple other things. I'm trying to get it done by Friday but I don't think it's gonna happen. I have 2 more wires to hook up on the WOT/window switch, and then I'm looking for a 30amp 4 prong relay and relay harness. Still need to fill the bottle, hook up the handheld to the laptop and pull some timing out of the motor and richen the A/F. Getting home @ 6 everynight with noone that knows enough about what I'm doing to help me sucks... Hopefully it rains Friday so I have a decent excuse not to go out to the track and I don't have to sweat it tomorrow. Don't worry, I'm keeping you guys in mind. Wiring everything up neatly and hidden is the pain in the ass part. I'm drilling and tapping the jet into the factory air box, exactly like I didn't want to do, but do to time and resources - (like not wanting to order a knew cone filter and a 90 deg. jet to a straight in jet) I had to drill and tap it. Anyways, stay tuned it'll be done sooner than later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ripped it all out, problems getting the signal I wanted from the 6 wire electronic throttle body. Got pissed, ripped out 3 days of progress in 30 mins. I was sooooo close to, all i had to figure out was that 1 wire and get the bottle filled and teflon paste the An fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
[quote author=Jaysen link=topic=73878.msg1371963#msg1371963 date=1177801162]
How are you trying to set this up? A switch @ WOT?
[/quote]

have a 2 way switch, first part is a window switch (low rpm on and high rpm off), 2nd part of it is whether or not I am a WOT, once both have been met nitrous engages. F-d with the multi-meter forever with the wires that weren't tac+, tac-, or tps ref. voltage, that leaves 3 wires left, none of which I could get a comparable reading of 0 to 5 volts or 5 to 0 volts as I would press down on the accelerator whether or not I back probed the wires @ the harness with the car running and/or I disconnected the connector and measured voltage with the car in run position but not started.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[quote author=seawolf link=topic=73878.msg1397611#msg1397611 date=1178729375]
You could get yourself one of these switches. I have had great luck with them in the past.


http://www.sentrylighting.net/store/index.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=156

If you can't figure out a way to make it work with the throttle body, you could put it on the acc pedal.
[/quote]

Microswitch....I know, i wanted a window switch also and didn't want to buy one seperate from a microswitch, would have cost about the same as just buying the drive by wire box. I looked @ the PC/ED book earlier this week and found the correct wire (TP2). The kit is going back on, I'm just not in a hurry. I'm glad I didn't go ahead and Jerry-Rig it to make it work. Fusions have platinum plugs in them from the factory, they would have been toasted white. I didn't know that about the plugs until about a week ago. Good thing I stopped myself, I was in too much of a hurry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Just so the rest of us know, can you enlighten us as to the whereabouts and description of the TP2 wire you had to find?
I know I might find it useful in the future... :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
[quote author=seawolf link=topic=73878.msg1401753#msg1401753 date=1178842595]
Just so the rest of us know, can you enlighten us as to the whereabouts and description of the TP2 wire you had to find?
I know I might find it useful in the future... :D
[/quote]

Sure thing dude. To be completely honest, I could probably do a write up with pictures and red arrows pointing stuff out. But for now I'll explain the hardest part of the install. (the tapping into the factory wiring to get the Drive-By-Wire Box to work right.)


For an ignition signal, I t'ed into the #6 cylinder coil wire. If you have the hood up, and are standing in front of the car looking @ the motor, the #6 cylinder is the front right. Coming out of your coil on the #6 cyl. is 2 wires, going into the loom with insulation over them. The wire you t into is the Violet wire w/Brown stripe. This wire will tell your Drive-by-wire box the RPM you are at, which in turn will give the "window switch" portion of the DBW box the information it needs to know when to start spraying nitrous and stop spraying it, full throttle or not. This way, if you launch the car and spin off the line and the nitrous activates, catch traction while still in first gear and bog the motor down, you won't overload the intake manifold and ports with nitrous and cause a nitrous backfire.(no more intake manifold pretty much, you'll blow it to bits).


As far as hooking up the TP2 PS wire goes... This is the throttle position voltage wire positive side, meaning it starts low and goes high as you stomp on the gas (voltage wise). Foot off the pedal the wire will read between....let's say .5 and 1.5 or so volts. As you press the gas pedal down the voltage will rise, and will max out around 4.7-5.0 volts at wide open throttle (pedal 2 metal). Anyways, the TP2 PS wire is Green with a Purple stripe, and comes off of the ETC Module itself < don't let the word module scare you guys, this is what an Electronic Throttle Body is. The wire is the last one on the connector from top to bottom - (it's pin #6). This is what tells your Drive-By-Wire box when you have the gas pedal floor.


The Drive-by-Wire nitrous switch will only activate the nitrous on 2 conditions. 1st is that your motor is in the pre-set rpm range. I have my box setup to start @ 3500 rpm, and stop @ 5900 rpm (The box is adjustable to whatever you want, start and stop). The second thing the box has to know before it activates the solenoids is that you are at full throttle. Should be around 4.7 volts. Once the DBW box see's that both requirements have been met, the nitrous solenoids are activated. It's a fail proof system. That's why I say to the hell with using just a microswitch.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top