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Need help. 2013 1.6L turbo fusion. Started with a Cylinder 3 Missfire. Took the spark plug out. Was toasted it was bad. I replaced it. Car ran good for two weeks. Now my coder says cylinders 1 & 4 are miss firing. So I now replaced all the spark plugs with E3 Spark plugs. Soon as I replaced the Plugs I now have 1 & 4 cylinder missfire and Injector A & injector D circuit coming up on my coder. The only other two codes I’ve had come up on it before the misfires started is a Turbocharge/Supercharge malfunction and a Cylinder head over temp. It’s not my coolent my coolent levels stay up. My car does not over heat. And I have no coolent leaks. The car will still start but idles really rough. Soon as I put it in drive or reverse there is little to no engine power. Does anyone have any idea on what this could be. I called ford all the really told me was to put motor craft plugs back in it and check for a wiring problem. That they highly doubt the fuel injectors are bad. And if that don’t solve the problem then to have it towed it and do a 200$ diagnostic test. Then whatever it’s going to cost for them to fix it. I don’t have that kind of money atm. Just if anyone has any ideas plz throw them at me. Also I don’t think it’s the coil packs I tested cylinder 3 out with a new one when I replaced that spark plug. Put the new coil pack in ran fine put the old one back in with the new spark plug ran fine. Until now.
 

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Need help. 2013 1.6L turbo fusion. Started with a Cylinder 3 Missfire. Took the spark plug out. Was toasted it was bad. I replaced it. Car ran good for two weeks. Now my coder says cylinders 1 & 4 are miss firing. So I now replaced all the spark plugs with E3 Spark plugs. Soon as I replaced the Plugs I now have 1 & 4 cylinder missfire and Injector A & injector D circuit coming up on my coder. The only other two codes I’ve had come up on it before the misfires started is a Turbocharge/Supercharge malfunction and a Cylinder head over temp. It’s not my coolent my coolent levels stay up. My car does not over heat. And I have no coolent leaks. The car will still start but idles really rough. Soon as I put it in drive or reverse there is little to no engine power. Does anyone have any idea on what this could be. I called ford all the really told me was to put motor craft plugs back in it and check for a wiring problem. That they highly doubt the fuel injectors are bad. And if that don’t solve the problem then to have it towed it and do a 200$ diagnostic test. Then whatever it’s going to cost for them to fix it. I don’t have that kind of money atm. Just if anyone has any ideas plz throw them at me. Also I don’t think it’s the coil packs I tested cylinder 3 out with a new one when I replaced that spark plug. Put the new coil pack in ran fine put the old one back in with the new spark plug ran fine. Until now.
Hi Tyler. First...participation here on the Ford Fusion Club has dwindled significantly over the last couple of years, as you can see by the scarcity of recent posts. Therefore, you may have a better chance of a helpful response if you post your question on the Ford Fusion Forum, located here: Ford Fusion Forum

Next...yes I would agree that your first step should be to replace the E3 plugs with the correct spec Motorcraft Plug (as listed in the Maintenance and Specifications section of your Owners Manual).

Next...The root cause of your engine issue it could be multiple causes. Anything from bad injectors, bad coils, the PCM going bad etc.
With that many codes and cylinder misfires, I would lean towards it being the PCM. But that is a blind, Internet guess worth about as much as you paid for it. I had a somewhat similar issue several years ago with my wife's 2007 Lincoln MKZ. Turned out to be the PCM.

In my shade tree mechanic experience, there is no way to shortcut this other than to perform the proper diagnostics, whether you can do it yourself or you have to pay a Ford Dealer/independent shop. Any other effort would most likely result in you throwing parts (and money) at the problem until you may get lucky.

If you have a Ford Dealer perform the diagnostics and repair the vehicle, the diagnostic fee should be waived/rolled into the final repair costs. I would also check with the Service Department at other local Ford Dealers (if possible), to see if they charge a lower diagnostic fee. All Dealers set their own prices.

And finally, if you decide you can not tackle this on your own but can not afford the Dealer Service prices, see if you can get a recommendation from a friend/family member for a reputable independent shop. It will cost less to have it repaired there than a Ford Dealer.

Keep us updated and good luck.
 
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