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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, it's time for some more upgrade. This time it is stereo. Here's what I have ordered and what will be going in soon.

Head Unit - Pioneer AVIC-D3 Double Din Touch Screen w/ Navi.

Amps - Phoenix Gold RSD 1200.1 and 500.4

Subs - Phoenix Gold RSD 12's (dual voice coil), box will be sealed, carpeted and built to SQ Spec dimensions.

Component And Coax Speakers - Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5" components (front doors)
Phoenix Gold RSD 5x7" coax's (rear doors)
Phoenix Gold RSD 6x9" coax's (rear deck)

Sound Deadening - Most likely FatMat, kind of undecided, havn't ordered but will when decided.

Distribution - KnuKonceptz.com - Kolossus 1/0 Gauge and 4 Gauge power and ground wires
- Krystal RCA's ((1) 4 channel kit, (1) 2 channel kit)
- 200A inline fuse holder for underneath the hood
- Fused Power Distribution Block 1/0gauge in and dual 4 gauge out
- Ground Distribution Block 1/0gauge in and dual 4 gauge out
- 1.5 or (2) 1 farad capacitors (undecided, unordered)
- "Klear Kable Blue" 10 gauge speaker wire to all speakers and subs

Power - Optima Yellow top possibly, undecided. last on the list kind of thing, u know?

Alarm - Autopage RS-900LCD (1 mile range), I won't be hooking up or installing the siren, someone will get hurt. :x features glass tamper, to the touch sensitivity, remote window roll up. (pretty sweet setup).


4 channel will be unbridged to the front and rear door speakers. Rear 6x9's will run off the Head unit for sound blending purposes. Subs will be series/parallel and bridged down to 2 ohms. I'll sound deaden everything possible except above the headliner and behind the dash, but I'll go as high up the firewall as I can. Door panels, carpet, seats, spare, entire trunk, rear deck cover, pillar panels and side panels will be taken out and sound deadened behind/underneath etc.

Pics to come when stuff starts rolling in, all my wires will be here UPS on Friday. Should be a killer setup, never took it this far with a stereo. My T-bird just had a mtx 12 & 800 watt amp with a generic 8 gauge amp kit and the trunk was sound deadened, with some 2-way infinity reference series rear speakers, factory fronts and pioneer mp3/wma deck. I thought that sounded damn good, this should slaughter that.
 

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Sounds like its going to be a crazy setup! Glad to see you went with all Hi-end stuff. Cant wait to see the finished stuff!!! Going to be loud!!!
 

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I've got all (well, not all) but most of my stereo stuff being installed today. I dropped my car off last night so they'll be working on it all day today. If you look at me signature, you'll see what I'm putting in.

I'll post pictures of what they did today when I get it home tonight.

But here's what they look like...

MB Quart


Infinity 693-7i 6x9's


Ininity Kappa Perfecr 10's


Boss CAP25BK (The black one)


Auidobahn A2200HCT (For the Subs)


Auidobahn A2002T (For the MB Quart)


(No pictures of the Damplifier that I already installed.)

I don't know the brand they'll be using for wires, but everything will be zero gauge wiring. This is just the first step. I will be adding to this
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
looks to be a nice setup, I've heard those Kappa Perfect'z are good subs, and the MB Quarts sound good too. 8) 8)
 

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If you are using a sub in the rear deck; which you are. I wouldn't put 6x9s in the rear deck. The 6x9s will lower the quality of bass that is comming out. Basically the 6x9s will act as sound port. That port will cause bass cancellations resulting in muddier and lower bass. I don't think you need the extra sound (mids/highs). Lastly it will make the wirring a lot easier.

On your equipment; I have couple of comments.
Amps/ Speakers:
I really like Pheonix Gold equipment esspecially their older Xenon series Amps. I know you will find their amps cool running and sound great. I consider PG amps to be on par if not better w/ RockFord Fostgate & MTX. I heard their ZR 6.5 components. It is a very good set for the money. They make great rap- R/B speakers. I never heard their Subs so no comment.

Sound deading:
Very important especially in the front 2 doors and trunk lid. I would reccomend EdeadV1SE. I have that in my current car. It is very nice material and very easy to apply. I rank them on par with Regular Dynamat but a lot cheaper. See: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24

Distribution:
Knu wirring I hard is very good quality stuff. so thumbs up :)
You will need to do the big 3 wiring upgrade esspecailly if you are a heavy user. I would hold off on a CAP and see if you really need it first. My bet is you don't. If do need it; I would get 2+ Farad cap. or better get 2 smaller ones and wire them in parrallel which has a lower internal resistance (wasted energy). Trust me that is better than one super big one. Another benifit they look cool.

Power:
I would also hold off on the yellow top and see if you really need it. Unless you listen a lot with car off; you don't need it!.

Otherwise a really nice setup. Congrats:
PM me if you anymore questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pkoko, so what your saying is:

1. Take out the factory deck speakers, put the rear deck speaker convers back on?

I think I'll just run it to a 2 farad cap, save some money and I'm not sure what else I'll need to try and run them parllel. I guess I just don't understand how it would be ran. Wouldn't I need dual 0 gauge in distribution blocks to run 2 caps in parallel?

P.S. - Optima emailed me back saying that I would have to modify the battery tray cuz they don't offer anything for the Fusion, I never listen to the stereo without the car running anyways, maybe 5-10 times a year for under 10 min. @ less than 1/4 volume-Screw That. If I have to I'll wind up putting a battery in the trunk, but I heard the Stinger batteries like that are high as hell.
 

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[quote author=KaBooM link=topic=85019.msg1607881#msg1607881 date=1186096931]
Pkoko, so what your saying is:

1. Take out the factory deck speakers, put the rear deck speaker convers back on?

I think I'll just run it to a 2 farad cap, save some money and I'm not sure what else I'll need to try and run them parllel. I guess I just don't understand how it would be ran. Wouldn't I need dual 0 gauge in distribution blocks to run 2 caps in parallel?

P.S. - Optima emailed me back saying that I would have to modify the battery tray cuz they don't offer anything for the Fusion, I never listen to the stereo without the car running anyways, maybe 5-10 times a year for under 10 min. @ less than 1/4 volume-Screw That. If I have to I'll wind up putting a battery in the trunk, but I heard the Stinger batteries like that are high as hell.[/quote]

1- if you have the premuim system. Yes I would remove these speakers and leave the cosmetec cover on them. but have the space below the cover empty to let the bass in. run 4 channel to all door speakers. return the extra 6x99s.

2-no your wiring should look like this:
battery---> 0awg ---> distribution block (you need 4terminal one)
Distribution to each cap in parrallel (2 terminals) and the 2 amps as well (2 terminals) using 8 awg.

Ground point -----> 0 awg ----> another distribution block ( 4 terminals)
now finish the negative on the caps and amps to the 4 terminals in the ground distribution block. That connection can be 8 awg.

3- You don't need 2nd battery. Are you competing in low burp spl competition?? if no; a 2nd batt will just eat power and really not help the amps in everyday use. If you do the big 3 and you are heavy user; you will have to replace the battery just more often. I wouldn't add another battery. Do the big 3 first. the stock alternator is 150 or 160 AMP which way more than any car audio needs you are doing. no need for extra battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So..... All I had before was the wires and in 4-7 Business Days I will be receiving:


Autopage
(1)Rf-520lcd

Phoenix Gold
(1) Rsd1200.1
(1) Rsd500.4
(1) Rsd65cs
(1) Rsd57.0
(2) Rsd12

Pioneer
(1) Avic-d3

Sound Destroyer
(1) 100sq.ft., 80 mil thick sound deadening

SPL
(1) Cp3.0
---------------------------------------------
I'm still needing to get

Power and ground dis. blocks

Speaker wire to run from the 500.4 back up to the doors

Materials for the box and the amp/cap/dis.block rack. I'll prob. just build a carpeted sealed box to spec.




What did some of you stereo guys do for good ground? Is the unibody of a Fusion going to be good enough? I'm def. not prepared to buy more 1/0 gauge for the ground from the bat. too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Built the box for the 12's tonight, and cut the MDF for the amp rack. I'm going to have the outside of the box "Rhino-Lined" instead of carpeted. I saw some sub boxes like that @ a stereo shop in OKC when I was there last week for Ford NVH Training. AVIC-D3 was supposed to be @ the house today via FedEx, but it was sig. upon delivery so I'll go pick it up on my lunch break tomorrow from the wharehouse. Other than that I have everything I've ordered.

I've opted to order a Phoenix Gold 3 channel line driver for the 2 and 4 channel RCA wires. This will up the voltage of them going into the amps to 10 volts, so basically I will have to turn the gain up little to none and will be extremely less stressful on the inputs of the amplifiers.

Also need to order the fused power and unfused ground distribution blocks for the power and ground wires and build brackets for the front components to convert the holes from 5x7" to 6.5" for the comps.

 

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I would really like to see pics of the box you made. I plan on building my own, I am a first timer. Is it hard? I undertand the enclosure must be mathematically correct for the kind of sub I get.
 

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[quote author=Ceace link=topic=85019.msg1679863#msg1679863 date=1188493356]
I would really like to see pics of the box you made. I plan on building my own, I am a first timer. Is it hard? I undertand the enclosure must be mathematically correct for the kind of sub I get.
[/quote]

please see
http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_video.php?viewkey=455b3fa09a282e0d496f
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: KaBooM'z Stereo Setup UPDATED**09-05-07** 56K Pleez beware

Sooo....Front and rear door speakers in, wires ran, all of trunk, rear deck and door panels are sound deadened. Put the AVIC-D3 in to make sure the bypass works right; it was flawless. Iinterior was out and in over the Labor day weekend. Rhino Liner wanted $150 to do the box and the amp rack. So, I went to Advanced Auto Parts tonight and bought some roll on bed liner ($30). It worked perfectly and did everything I wanted it too. I centered the amps and the power cap on the amp rack after it dried, punched my pre-drill hole marks, test fit the amp rack, and test fit the subs again. Everything is coming together flawlessly and with no hassle. I havn't had a single clip or push pin break.

I can tell you about the only tools I used were a flat head, 70 degree pic, dikes, needle nose pliers, duck-bill pliers, phillips head, 13mm swivel(seat bolts), 5.5mm, 7mm and 8mm, some wire strippers, and a soldering iron.

I'm thinking about getting black vinyl letters to put on the 3rd brake light that say "Bold Moves" in the same font Ford uses.

Anyways.....Here's what I did all weekend and tonight.



















 

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KaBooM,

It's looking pretty sweet. I can't wait to see the final product.

I don't know about you, but fitting my fat ass in the trunk to put in the sound deadening sucked. There's still one spot on the trunk lid that I need to add some more deadening to. It's the only spot that has a little bit of a rattle. All in all, it's supprizingly quite.
 

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Just a couple of questions as i'm doing a stereo makeover as well.
1) how did youget the back seat and console out?
2) where did you run the amp main power cable through the firewall?

Your setup looks real good though, I would post some of mine but I'm not sure how to attach pictures...lol

Thanks for the info

Wayne
 

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It's the only way to fly when you put a complete stereo system in a veh. It's pretty fun to tear you car apart and put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[quote author=binford link=topic=85019.msg1693544#msg1693544 date=1189084523]
Just a couple of questions as i'm doing a stereo makeover as well.
1) how did youget the back seat and console out?
2) where did you run the amp main power cable through the firewall?

Your setup looks real good though, I would post some of mine but I'm not sure how to attach pictures...lol

Thanks for the info

Wayne
[/quote]

#1- at the bottom front center of the bottom portion of the back seat are t clips (1 per side). You slide them to the right and lift up. Very simple. To get the back portion out, release the locks that hold the back up from the trunk. then it's 4 18mm bolts (2 per side). p.s. - All seat bolts are 18mm x same length so they all interchangeable.

#1 part 2 - pull shifter trim ring off (clipped in), 2 phillips i think in the front sides, remove the armrest, remove the trim around the shifter. The rest should come out. There will be 1 elec. connector for the power point in the center console storage bin.

#2 I'm running 1/0 gauge wire (huge), so it's from the battery to the front of the trunk all underneath the car.
 
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