[quote author=Waldo link=topic=41579.msg621899#msg621899 date=1142604031]
Did you remember to torque all of the bushings at a neutral ride height? The lower front shock bushing especially will add a lot of harshness if it is tightened while the car is still in the air.
Actually if the car is substantially lower, you should re-neutralize all the bushings in the suspension to keep them from "pre-winding" and adding suspension rate and reducing their life.
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Actually the Front end was a no brainer, the springs went in and required no adjustment to the camber settings from stock -.25 degrees to -50 degrees lowered and 0 tow. The back was a differnt story, factory settings were all screwed up, left rear was -1.0 degree camber and +.25 degrees tow out while the right rear was -1.5 degrees camber and + 1.0 degrees tow out. Once the springs were installed things got worse, left rear went to -3.0 camber and +1.0 degrees tow out and the right rear went to -3.0 degrees camber and +2.5 degrees tow out. Slightly crabbing and very twitchy with road ruts. But the first stab at alignment was to releave the winding once the car was jacked up and the rear axle at full droop, just lossening the camber bolts and allowing it to un-wind brought the camber into a good performance setting of -1.5 degrees. Tow out required close to about 4 full turns in for the right side and 1 full turn in on the left which is now set to +.25 degrees out. I run the same settings on my Vette and seems to be a good compromise for performance and street manners. And hell look at the money I saved, just required a little reading. :goodjob:
