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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a scratch on my passenger side front fender.  I think it happened when I parked too close to a curb.  Anyway, does anyone know a reliable, inexpensive way to heal this scratch?  I've never used rubbing compound before, but would something like that work?
 

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[quote author=1sttimeMercury link=topic=52921.msg856455#msg856455 date=1154374455]
I got a scratch on my passenger side front fender.  I think it happened when I parked too close to a curb.  Anyway, does anyone know a reliable, inexpensive way to heal this scratch?  I've never used rubbing compound before, but would something like that work?

[/quote]

Is this scratch on the fender "metal" or front bumper fascia "Plastic" ??? Next is it just a scuff or has it torn the paint ? Please discribe in a little more detail so the cure can be administered. Also what color determines how aggressive polishing can be along with the substrate.

Let us know,

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's on the plastic panel right in front of the passenger side front wheel. And it did tear the paint -- really a nasty scratch about 2 inches long. I have pictures but I'm too computer illiterate to figure out how to post them on this site. Any suggestions on how to do that are welcome, but I digress. My car is a Tungsten Gray Milan. I haven't even had it 2 months! What makes it worse is I probably did it myself by parking too damn close to a curb. Thank God it's not easily seen.
 

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You aint gonna rub that out. Sorry about your luck. Thats into the plastic. You need to find a body shop for that. They ahve some kind of special stuff to put into plastic and then its gonna need some paint. The sooner the better before the paint starts to fade and then they won't be able to match it very well.

Didn't mean to scare you. Sorry I've just been there with my contour.
 

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BlackI4se is right about needing that repaired by a professional body shop, preferably by the dealership you bought the car from, that way THEY are responsible for the color match. As for the color fading part, 15 years ago maybe, all paints now are clear coat and unless clear fades (not likely) the base coat remains unchanged. The real issue is the painter making the repair, too many variables in spraying a high metallic color like Tungsten. Zerallic, pearls and aluminum flakes react differntly to application and the chances that a painter is going to get it right on the first shot is about 35%.

Good luck.
 

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My contour is sliver metallic and I went to the best body shop in the 40 mile radius and they still didn't match the paint perfectly. If you look at it on a angle in some sunlight you can see that the new paint is darker.
 

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[quote author=BlackI4se link=topic=52921.msg858715#msg858715 date=1154462783]
My contour is sliver metallic and I went to the best body shop in the 40 mile radius and they still didn't match the paint perfectly. If you look at it on a angle in some sunlight you can see that the new paint is darker.
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This is what I said above, it's not that the old paint has faded, it is that the new paint is not being applied correctly to match the factory application. The factory paint is applied electrostatically at 80k voltage which helps align the flake and distribute it to match a factory standard. When Billy Ray Joe Bob sprayed your Contour he was just using his trusty Binks model 62 air atomizing spray gun with no electrostatic application. I still haven't understood why body shops don't use electrostatic guns but I suppose they can get a little expensive. $4200.00 vs. $300.00.
The issue with your Contour was when Billy Bob sprayed the metallic silver the flake stood on edge allowing the sunlight to show the silver pigment but not the flake. The flake reflects the sunlight when layed flat and provides the brightness you expect.
 

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Very well put. Never thought of it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
[quote author=BlackI4se link=topic=52921.msg858266#msg858266 date=1154452078]
You aint gonna rub that out. Sorry about your luck. Thats into the plastic. You need to find a body shop for that. They ahve some kind of special stuff to put into plastic and then its gonna need some paint. The sooner the better before the paint starts to fade and then they won't be able to match it very well.

Didn't mean to scare you. Sorry I've just been there with my contour.
[/quote]

Any idea on how much that would cost? Especially if I went to the dealer for the repair?
 

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1sttimeMercury,

Broken down into basics you're looking at the following:

1.5 hours @ $ 75.00 per hour = $112.50
1 pint of base coat = $ 40.00
1 quart reducer = $ 14.00
1 quart clear coat = $ 35.00
1 quart activator = $ 20.00
misc materials = $ 25.00
regional cost adjustment and total = $275.00

I wouldn't expect anything less than this, just be prepared.
 

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Confusion I agree, I have 2 small dents in my passenger door, a couple minor scratches and a mirror housing that broke as some idiot happened to channge lanes and hit my mirror with his mirror. Mine broke his didn't (S**T).

My estimate from the body shop is this:

Sheet metal work, 3.5 hours @ 50.00/hour = $175.00
Metal refinishing,   3.9 hours @ 50.00/hour = $195.00
Mirror housing                                            $32.91
Paint                                                        $85.80
Corrosion protection                                   $15.00
Hazardous waste removal                            $5.00

TOTAL                                                     $579.93 Canadian (14% tax here in Ontario)

My family has taken 5 cars to this body shop due to some idiot hitting us, I've NEVER had any mismatched paint, I could only imagine how mad that would make me!!!!!
I hope everything works out for you  :cheers:
 

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Here is a solution that will require a small amount of skill but being the are is small you should be able to manage.

1. Use razor blade to clean any of the burrs from the sides of the scratch (be very careful doing this a razor scrapper will do well)

2. Take touch up paint and brush into scratch (may take a couple coats to build up enough)

3. You now have the scratches covered, so get some fine sand paper and wet sand the touch up paint down to level it with the paint. (Be careful doing this so you do not remove alot of the surrounding paint) You can use masking tape to help with this part.

4. Once you have the touch up paint knocked down use a fine polishing compound to bring up a shine. Coat with wax and your done.

This whole process will take some time to accomplish but if done properly you will never be able to tell it was ever scratched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hmmm... that sounds like something I might try, Led. I have a couple of questions, though -- I'm not too bright about this sort of thing.
1. Where can I get touch up paint to match my car? The dealer?
2. What exactly do you mean by "wet sand the touch up paint down"? Do I need to sand it while the paint is wet?
3. I'm assuming polishing compound can be found at most auto parts stores, right?

Thanks again for the suggestion. If I decide to do it, I'll keep you posted.
 

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If you go to the Meguires.com website, they have an article on wetsanding
and also carry superior wetsanding products.

Good car detailing websites and forums include autopia.org, premiumautocare.com.
 

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I think the touch up paint is the way to go; as you can't really make it look any worse. But once you've cleaned the scratch, I'd recommend using the back side of a match from a match book as the paint applicator. My dad taught me that trick and it seems to fill the scratches better and more evenly than the brush.
 
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