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Hi Familia. I have to admit that I'm no gearhead, so I'm just throwing out a suggestion.

Your problem sounds like an issue that i had with my 99 mystique, which was a dry rotted vacuum line. I went through cleaning the MAF and replacing the idle control valve. As soon as I found the vacuum line and plugged the hole with my finger the engine returned to smooth idle. Like your situation, the rough idle didn't throw any codes.

Like I said, I'm no expert. I don't even know if the Fusion uses vacuum lines or if there are any related the the HVAC system, just though I would throw that out there.

Hope you figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well, I took it to my mechanic last night and he checked it out. He saw what was happening and hooked it up to his computer. There were no codes on the OBD. According to the diagnostic, everything is functioning fine, i.e when the compressor is coming on, the computer is picking it up and adjusting the idle accordingly to compensate for it. Now he did say there is a slight delay from when the computer is saying it's adjusting the idle to when the idle actually adjusts. He suggested that I look at my Throttle Body and try cleaning it. He said he could do it, but then he would have to charge me for the cleaning, diagnostic, etc. He did the check for me at no cost.

Worst case scenario is my Throttle Sensor is going and will have to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Update:

I went to Parts Source and bought a $6.99 can of Throttle Body Cleaner. I took my air inlet hose off and sprayed the ever living crap out of the TB and Butterfly and wiped them clean. They were very dirty. I repeated the process another 2 times until I was satisfied. I buttoned everything back up and fired up the car. I felt the compressor come on and...no drop in idle. I'm not going to celebrate yet, but I definitely feel good. The idle relearn also helped.

Thanks for everyones help on this. I have a ton of driving to do over the holidays so I'll let everyone know how she's holding up.

And now, it's time for a Double JD & Coke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
True enough on the Crown and CC! But that's all I had in the house and I'd have to be nuts to try and hit the LCBO today.
 

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[quote author=Familia1 link=topic=201797.msg4165049#msg4165049 date=1324670997]
True enough on the Crown and CC! But that's all I had in the house and I'd have to be nuts to try and hit the LCBO today.
[/quote]

I just got back :S parking lot was a zoo. Picked up some Lakeport, Rickards and a bottle of vino lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Alright, update.

After about 1,000 km's of driving and -20 degree weather the idle is still stable. In fact, the throttle is a lot more responsive. I might put this into a yearly PM for my car.
 

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[quote author=Familia1 link=topic=201797.msg4163741#msg4163741 date=1324429261]
Hi bbf2530,

The car has been in the shop quite a bit lately, but the battery has never been removed.

I'll do the "Idle and Fuel Trim Strategy" tomorrow. Is it better to start the relearn process while the engine is stone cold, or should I drive it for a bit to warm it up, then pull the battery and do the relearn?
Hi Familia. :wavey: In the case of the instructions for my car, step 1 is to set the parking brake, step 2 is to "Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the engine" and step 3 is to let the car warm-up to operating temperature (temp gauge needle reaching normal operating temperature). And in the case of my engine/car, there are 7 steps followed by at least 10 miles of driving. But the process does differ slightly for some engines/model years. Therefore, the best advice I can give is to read and follow the instructions that are listed in your Owners Manual to the letter.

Your Owners Manual will tell you exactly what to do with your car (whether the engine should be warmed or not etc.) and you need to follow the instructions exactly. Do not skip a step or think one step or another is not important. If you don't follow them exactly, it is an exercise in futility. And in this particular case, you do not need to (and I would recommend you do not) "pull the battery" before proceeding to do the relearn procedure. It is not part of the relearn process, it is simply one of the reasons to perform the process.

Also, while you may not think the battery has ever been disconnected (it does not need to be "removed"), it is entirely possible the battery was disconnected on any one of those shop visits. There are many repair procedures which require the battery to be disconnected for safety purposes alone. I have no idea whether it was or was not disconnected, just offering the suggestion that there is a chance it could have been disconnected without your knowledge.

Anyway, let us know how you make out and good luck. :cheers:
[/QUOTE]
Worked for me..... thanks, I would have never guessed that this would work... It did!
 
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