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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve recently been having a problem with my 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid where a bunch of warning chimes come on at once. ABS, Brake system, Advancetrac all go off when the car is cold. Power braking turns off so all there is left is super jerky hydraulic braking that feels like I'm doing one leg squats. After it warms up I can restart the vehicle and the lights will all disappear and power braking will come back. Seems as if this only happens after a prolonged period of time without the engine running (about 8 hours or so).

I bought a scanner that can read ABS and SRS codes and downloaded Forscan so I could pull information from the computer, but while I’ve done drivetrain work before I have no idea what these codes are relaying. I’m hoping it’s a wheel sensor but I’m kinda nervous about it being ABS, because I’m super broke and can’t afford that right now. Maybe someone can help me out?

I’ve also attached a picture of the cluster when the lights go off.




PCM

Code: U0418 - Invalid Data Received from Brake System Control Module A

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module




ABS


Code: C1B00 - Steering angle sensor

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Signal Plausibility Failure

Status:
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
- Test not complete

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame :
-GLOBTIM: 226026192 sec - Global real time
-TOTDIST: 155302.0 km - Total Distance
-MAINECUV: 13.75 Volt - Main ECU voltage supply
-OUTTMP: 17 °C - External Temperature From Sensor
-AYC: Inactive - AYC
-ABS: Inactive - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive - RSC
-BTC: Inactive - BTC
-HDC: Inactive - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Active - Hydraulic Pump State
-VPWR_ABS: 13.90 Volt - Module supply voltage
-VSS: 53.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed



Code: C0020 - ABS Pump Motor Control

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Open

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame :
-GLOBTIM: 228076668 sec - Global real time
-TOTDIST: 157804.0 km - Total Distance
-MAINECUV: 14.25 Volt - Main ECU voltage supply
-OUTTMP: 9 °C - External Temperature From Sensor
-AYC: Inactive - AYC
-ABS: Inactive - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive - RSC
-BTC: Inactive - BTC
-HDC: Inactive - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Active - Hydraulic Pump State
-VPWR_ABS: 14.20 Volt - Module supply voltage
-VSS: 20.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed





Code: C0020 - ABS Pump Motor Control

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Short To Battery

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame :
-GLOBTIM: 228076668 sec - Global real time
-TOTDIST: 157804.0 km - Total Distance
-MAINECUV: 14.25 Volt - Main ECU voltage supply
-OUTTMP: 9 °C - External Temperature From Sensor
-AYC: Inactive - AYC
-ABS: Inactive - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive - RSC
-BTC: Inactive - BTC
-HDC: Inactive - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Active - Hydraulic Pump State
-VPWR_ABS: 14.20 Volt - Module supply voltage
-VSS: 20.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed





PSCM

Code: U0415 - Invalid Data Received From ABS Control Module

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Power Steering Control Module

Freeze Frame :
-SWRS: 0 rev/min - Steering Wheel Rotation Speed
-SW_ANGLE: -81.00 ° - Steering Wheel Angle
 

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bump cause I'm completely lost...I have a multimeter lol
Hi Grendochan. How old is your 12 volt battery? The sensor checks for modern cars, and maybe even more so for hybrids, are very sensitive and dependent on a good battery. There's a good chance this is why you are getting invalid sensor readings.
Therefore, I would start by having your battery professionally checked. In reality, if you get 3-4 years out of a battery nowadays you got your moneys worth, so if it is more than 3-4 years old I would simply recommend replacing. This will likely fix your problems.
You can also try temporarily switching yours out for a healthy battery from another car to see if it corrects the problem.
Keep us updated and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Grendochan. How old is your 12 volt battery? The sensor checks for modern cars, and maybe even more so for hybrids, are very sensitive and dependent on a good battery. There's a good chance this is why you are getting invalid sensor readings.
Therefore, I would start by having your battery professionally checked. In reality, if you get 3-4 years out of a battery nowadays you got your moneys worth, so if it is more than 3-4 years old I would simply recommend replacing. This will likely fix your problems.
You can also try temporarily switching yours out for a healthy battery from another car to see if it corrects the problem.
Keep us updated and good luck.
Thank you for the response! I forgot to mention that I know that's a common failure for this vehicle, but the battery is less than two years old and I live in temperate Los Angeles so I have a hard time thinking that's the cause. It seems like a very specific, very consistent problem for it to be related to a general failure like the car's battery. I'd love to just replace it and see but I'm strapped for cash and can't afford to spend $100+ on a hunch.

I'm really hoping that based on the codes above I can do some resistance checking or something for certain circuits to determine if maybe I have a bad wheel sensor or ABS computer. I also don't understand why this problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven for awhile. Maybe that does point to the battery as it hasn't been charged recently?
 

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Thank you for the response! I forgot to mention that I know that's a common failure for this vehicle, but the battery is less than two years old and I live in temperate Los Angeles so I have a hard time thinking that's the cause. It seems like a very specific, very consistent problem for it to be related to a general failure like the car's battery. I'd love to just replace it and see but I'm strapped for cash and can't afford to spend $100+ on a hunch.

I'm really hoping that based on the codes above I can do some resistance checking or something for certain circuits to determine if maybe I have a bad wheel sensor or ABS computer. I also don't understand why this problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven for awhile. Maybe that does point to the battery as it hasn't been charged recently?
Hi Grendochan. Yes, exactly. While Internet diagnosis is iffy at best, it does point to the battery.
The fact that the battery is less than two years old is relevant, but that fact still does not exclude a bad/failing battery. Modern, computer and electronics loaded cars place a heavy strain on the battery, so getting three to four years means getting our money's worth nowadays. However, that does not exclude earlier failures. Without further hands-on diagnosis, your symptoms point to that possibility.
I would generally not recommend replacing any part on a hunch, so at least take it to a shop that will correctly check your battery for free. Many Ford dealers will do free battery checks. Just call and ask.
Keep us updated and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unfortunately I replaced the battery and the issue is still present!! Seemed to go away for a week and now it's right back to normal. I could use some help because I have no idea where to even start.
 

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Hi Grendochan. Yes, exactly. While Internet diagnosis is iffy at best, it does point to the battery.
The fact that the battery is less than two years old is relevant, but that fact still does not exclude a bad/failing battery. Modern, computer and electronics loaded cars place a heavy strain on the battery, so getting three to four years means getting our money's worth nowadays. However, that does not exclude earlier failures.......... .
All vehicles from about 2000 and newer need to have a battery in good health. Most electrical issues can be contributed by a battery that is not in the best of health.
I was wondering how your advise was going to go. NO ONE should rule out a battery no matter what the age is without a load test. You can get a failing battery with a rotation mouth within 90 days from new. There are 2 date codes on batteries one is when it was newly rotated for stock in the retail stores and the other is an actual manufactured date code.

As for clearing DTC's remember that at least one complete cycle should be done before re-checking new DTCs even if the DTC light comes on. You can however make notes when and the DTC indicated.
Clearing the DTC only removes the warning light however if the problem is still unresolved you will see the DTC return and also you can have a fault indicated in the Monitors also indicating an unresolved problem.
 

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Recentemente, tive um problema com meu Ford Fusion Hybrid 2011, onde um monte de avisos sonoros soam de uma só vez. ABS, sistema de freio, Advancetrac todos disparam quando o carro está frio. A frenagem hidráulica desliga, então tudo o que resta é uma frenagem hidráulica super irregular que parece que estou fazendo agachamentos com uma perna. Depois de aquecer, posso reiniciar o veículo e as luzes desaparecerão e a frenagem hidráulica voltará. Parece que isso só acontece após um período prolongado de tempo sem o motor funcionando (cerca de 8 horas ou mais).

Eu comprei um scanner que pode ler códigos ABS e SRS e baixei o Forscan para poder extrair informações do computador, mas enquanto eu fiz o trabalho de drivetrain antes, não tenho ideia do que esses códigos estão transmitindo. Espero que seja um sensor de roda, mas estou meio nervoso por ser ABS, porque estou super quebrado e não posso pagar por isso agora. Talvez alguém possa me ajudar?

Também anexei uma foto do cluster quando as luzes se apagam.




PCM

Código: U0418 - Dados inválidos recebidos do módulo de controle do sistema de freio A

Status:
- DTC previamente definido - Não presente no momento da solicitação
- A lâmpada indicadora de mau funcionamento está desligada para este DTC

Módulo: Módulo de controle do trem de força




abdômen


Código: C1B00 - Sensor do ângulo de direção

Sintoma de falha adicional:
- Falha de plausibilidade do sinal

Status:
- A lâmpada indicadora de mau funcionamento está desligada para este DTC
- Teste não concluído

Módulo: Sistema de travagem antibloqueio

Congelar quadro:
-GLOBTIM: 226026192 sec - Global real time
-TOTDIST: 155302.0 km - Total Distance
-MAINECUV: 13.75 Volt - Main ECU voltage supply
-OUTTMP: 17 °C - External Temperature From Sensor
-AYC: Inactive - AYC
-ABS: Inactive - ABS
-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inactive - RSC
-BTC: Inactive - BTC
-HDC: Inactive - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State
-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State
-HYD_PMP_ST: Active - Hydraulic Pump State
-VPWR_ABS: 13.90 Volt - Module supply voltage
-VSS: 53.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed



Code: C0020 - ABS Pump Motor Control

Additional Fault Symptom:
- Circuit Open

Status:
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame :
-GLOBTIM: 228076668 sec - Global real time
-TOTDIST: 157.804,0 km - Distância Total
-MAINECUV: 14,25 Volt - Alimentação de tensão da ECU principal
-OUTTMP: 9 °C - Temperatura externa do sensor
-AYC: Inativo - AYC
-ABS: Inativo - ABS
-BTCS: Inativo - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inativo -RSC
-BTC: Inativo - BTC
-HDC: Inativo - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inativo - Estado do impulsionador de vácuo ativo
-BST_REL_SW: Inativo - Estado do Comutador de Liberação do Booster
-HYD_PMP_ST: Ativo - Estado da Bomba Hidráulica
-VPWR_ABS: 14,20 Volt - Tensão de alimentação do módulo
-VSS: 20,0 km/h - Velocidade do Veículo





Código: C0020 - Controle do Motor da Bomba ABS

Sintoma de falha adicional:
- Curto-circuito na bateria

Status:
- DTC previamente definido - Não presente no momento da solicitação
- A lâmpada indicadora de mau funcionamento está desligada para este DTC

Módulo: Sistema de travagem antibloqueio

Congelar quadro:
-GLOBTIM: 228076668 seg - Tempo real global
-TOTDIST: 157.804,0 km - Distância Total
-MAINECUV: 14,25 Volt - Alimentação de tensão da ECU principal
-OUTTMP: 9 °C - Temperatura externa do sensor
-AYC: Inativo - AYC
-ABS: Inativo - ABS
-BTCS: Inativo - BTCS -201D
-RSC: Inativo -RSC
-BTC: Inativo - BTC
-HDC: Inativo - HDC
-VAC_BST_ST: Inativo - Estado do impulsionador de vácuo ativo
-BST_REL_SW: Inativo - Estado do Comutador de Liberação do Booster
-HYD_PMP_ST: Ativo - Estado da Bomba Hidráulica
-VPWR_ABS: 14,20 Volt - Tensão de alimentação do módulo
-VSS: 20,0 km/h - Velocidade do Veículo





PSCM

Código: U0415 - Dados Inválidos Recebidos do Módulo de Controle ABS

Status:
- DTC previamente definido - Não presente no momento da solicitação
- A lâmpada indicadora de mau funcionamento está desligada para este DTC

Módulo: Módulo de controle de direção hidráulica

Congelar quadro:
-SWRS: 0 rev/min - Velocidade de rotação do volante
-SW_ANGLE: -81,00 ° - Ângulo do volante
[/CITAR]
Bom dia estou com o mesmo problema aqui no Brasil, porém já troquei hidrovacuo e o módulo hidráulico do abs e ainda continua o problema e as luzes acesas podem me ajudar ?
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Pattern
Speedometer Trip computer Gauge Automotive lighting Tachometer

Font Parallel Technology Number Rectangle
 
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