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If you are looking for a nice ultimate sound and dont want to spend thousands of dollars and dont want to deal with wires and take up trunk space, then this upgrade is perfect for you. :goodjob:

First is first. Your reciever is the main domain for your sound. That is your controller, the brain of all the works. So you will want to pick out the greatest. For example, Poineer, Alpine, Kenwood & Eclipse. Dont forget your aftermarket radio antenna adapter if you want to listen to the radio.

2. Your harness for the radio. [glow=red,2,300]PLEASE DO NOT BUY THE WIRE CUTTING AND SOLDERING KIT. YOU WILL CUT DOWN LIMITATIONS TO YOUR SOUND AND YOU WILL LOOSE VALUE TO THE FUSION.[/glow] So buy the Vehicle Specific Harness. This way you still keep your OEM tweeters.

3. Your Subwoofer, the heavy hitter in your trunk. There is the sayng, the bigger the better and the more quantity the better. On this case, dont bother with that. One single enclosed 10 inch sub is just perfect. The Kicker L7 sub is one of the bosses of bass. This little guy will do the job of the usual two 12's most people have now in days. Plus you still have space for your tools, golf bags, sport equip, or your wifes over the limit shopping bags.

Remember the rule of thumb. Sound is the movement of air. So the more space you have for your sub, the better bass and sound you will have. So either get the Kicker L7 that is already inclosed from factory, or go to one of your local sound shops to build you a nice box for the sub. [glow=red,2,300]PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE BOX IS PORTED. SO IT WILL STAY COOL DURING HEAVY LOADS. [/glow]

3. The last and final.. Your amp. Now this is the one where you need to do the Power, Watts, AMP law. Do not get the X brand amps that say 2000 watts or 5000watts. You see that then stay away. Example companys, DHD, POINEER, INFINITY. Real amps do not advertise watts on their amps.

Always focus on your subs needs. Never ever go past 15% of watts or stay 15% min of watts. Meaning, if the Kicker has 600 RMS Watts. Dual 4ohm-voice coils. Then use those specs for the sub. [glow=red,2,300]NEVER EVER LOOK AT THE PEAK POWER.[/glow] On this L7 it says 1200watt peak power. But this means thats the max it can take before it gives in. The perfect amp for this is the Kicker ZX750. 375 rms watts x 1 at 4 ohms. Which goes to 750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms. That is just what you need and all the sub needs if your planing to keep it for years down the road. and for a pro sound.

You might think that doesnt look like is loud since it has such low wattage. But trust me, your car will sound very loud and clear. Your highs and mids are very clear, and your lows is always there. Ive had soo many compliments over this system set up. Ive had pro ask me how much and who did it. You will hear all your instrument and the lowest bass you can think off. Music is not just the loudest bass and just bass. You will want to hear your vocals also.

[glow=red,2,300]DONT FORGET, TUNING YOUR SOUND AFTER INSTALL IS A MUST. IT MIGHT TAKE A GOOD HALF TO FULL HOUR TO GET THE PERFECT SOUND AT LOWEST TO HIGHEST VOLUME.[/glow] You might need to run to your reciever and amp back and foward.

IF you ask me how much ive spent. I say $1200.

$280 for the reciever.

$200 for all the wiring. AMP, Harness, antenna adapter and steering wheel harness(which still keeps you steering wheel funtion active)

$220 for the KICKER L7 10 icn box enclosed sub.

$500 Kicker ZX750 Mono sub amp..


Best place to get all of this is Crutchfield.com
 

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OK - question.

I have a burning desire to put speakers in the four speakers holes where I currently have nada.

BUT - I'm sure that there are no speaker wires running to said empty speaker bays.

I WILL keep my factory radio in the car. Yes, I know that Crutchfield sells the adaptor kit so that I can still operate my radio from the steering wheel and such (for a cool, wasted $100). But, I want these four other speakers.

Is it hard to get these speakers integrated into the current head unit configuration?
 

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Which four openings are you talking about?
 

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The ones in the back (which I have since found are 6x9) and the tweeter opening (which I still haven't really found any particular answer about the size).

From what I was told today by my friend who knows his schiatt about car stuff, he says that I would get more bang out of my buck if I just left the tweeters alone and got 2-way Polks for the doors and Polk 6x9's for the back.

That being said, he took a look and found out that the holes for the 6x9's do not correspond to the mock speaker grille that is on the back of the car.

Does anyone have an audiophile system that has these 6x9's and anyone care to tell me if they have the conservative grille coverings on these speakers? The factory Polk covers make me want to vomit.
 

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by putting a two-way in your front doors you will want to TAKE OUT or DISCONNECT your tweeters because the imaging will be pretty messed up. I believe there was someone else on here who put two or three-ways in their doors and the sound and imaging was horrible. Once they disconnected their tweeters it was better. If i were your freind, and had a bit of extra money to spend id upgrade to some compenents for the fronts and run them off an amp. The imaging of having your tweeters sperate from the mids / woofer, and having them more at ear level is so much better than having two or three ways pointing up at you from the floor.

As for the 6x9s in the rear... I did the same thing you want to do. I put 2 6x9s in the back and it did not add much at all. Now if you are going to remove the rear deck, re carpet and sound proof it and make the 6x9 openings, it will be much better. But after all that work you are better off in just getting a decent sub which will add so much more than any 6x9 would. Besides, your are going to just want to run the lows off the 6x9 so all the tweeters and mid ranges the 6x9 utilizes are pointless. You dont want your direction of sound to come from the back of your car.
 

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I agree with Sterny and I had the same 2 way and tweeter issue he described (removed the tweeters after a couple of weeks). Get an amp and sub first, then re-evaluate your system. You may not find the need to do any more. If you want more, get components/amp for the front. Doing anything with the back or rear deck would be my very last change.
 

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Just a couple observations/comments about subwoofers:

The port in a vented enclosure isn’t there to cool the chamber. Sealed enclosures are far easier for the average Joe to build. Simply build a box with the recommended internal volume provided by the manufacturer, making sure to account for the displacement of the sub (should also be provided by sub manufacturer… or at least the better ones). Sealed enclosures also take up a lot less space than ported enclosures. Sealed enclosures, in general, also have a flatter response than a ported box.

Ported enclosures are very difficult for a beginner to get right. In fact, my first couple were failures. Ported boxes MUST be sized and tuned according to the specs of the subwoofer. For general purpose subwoofers, I’d recommend a lower tuning. Something around 32 Hz (exact tuning dependant on actual subwoofer and size of box) generally allows tighter bass hits with a flatter, more even response all the way to the crossover frequency, while sacrificing a little volume when compared to an equal box with equal sub tuned to 45 Hz.

At the end of the day, I’ll take a sealed enclosure over an improperly designed ported enclosure any day of the week. The only thing worse than a poorly designed ported enclosure is a poorly designed bandpass box. Either way, bigger is not always better when looking at sub enclosures. In sealed applications, smaller enclosures sacrifice some perceived volume but have a much tighter sound. A sealed enclosure that is vastly oversized produces a sloppier bass note.


Be weary of advertised power. Power is power, but companies do not use a standard method of measuring the output of their amplifiers. When I’m amp shopping I’m looking for an amp with an RMS rating of ~25% higher than the RMS rating of the subwoofer(s) at the proposed load.
 
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