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Ok so I browsed the auto section of my local auto store today cause its almost time for an oil change again (last time dealer did it) my question is what does ford use normal 5w20 or full synth 5w20? The local store had normal 5w20 for 2.79 a qt and the full synth for 6.29 is it worth the extra money to go full synth? What benefits? Would the dealer be willing to do it for me? I don't have the tools so I'd need those and time is tight to
 

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[quote author=otaku link=topic=89847.msg1733789#msg1733789 date=1190596757]
Ok so I browsed the auto section of my local auto store today cause its almost time for an oil change again (last time dealer did it) my question is what does ford use normal 5w20 or full synth 5w20? The local store had normal 5w20 for 2.79 a qt and the full synth for 6.29 is it worth the extra money to go full synth? What benefits? Would the dealer be willing to do it for me? I don't have the tools so I'd need those and time is tight to
[/quote]

When you say "the normal", I'm assuming you mean the SynthBlend Motor Craft 5w-20. The synthetic blend MC is what the factory fill was...not the conventional. The synthetic blend is a wonderful oil, especially for the price. If the dealer offers MotorCraft oils, I'm sure he has the full synthetic available. I just didn't think a 70 dollar oil change was in the cards, knowing I could give my car an oil change on FULL synthetic and a super oil filter for about 20 bucks or less. Currently, i'm running Valvoline Synpower in my car with a Napa Gold filter. My next change will be Amsoil 5W-20 XL with a Pure 1 filter.
 

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Ford uses Motorcraft Synthetic 5w20. About $11 from walmart, Not a bad oil, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic $20, gonna try amsoil for my next one $30. It really depends on who you ask, oil brand is a preference. regular Dyno and syn oils are so close in comparisons now that either one you go with you cant lose. Everyone will chime in with a preference. Dealer will do oil changes, but you'll be paying more for something you can easily do yourself. All you need is a 15m wrench or socket for your oil pan, cant remember the allen # for your filter, provided you have the cartridge style filter.
 

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amsoil 5w-20 xl is NOT sythnetic...is group 3 base oil...it's high quality but NOT I REPEAT NOT SYN...if you get the NEW AMSOIL 0W-20 that is 100% syn and the only way to go 25,000 miles or 1 year oil changes....and you can use a normal filter but need to change every 6months...but if you get the EAO amsoil filter only at oil change for a how year....i spend 55 bucks a year only my oil changes....i love it once a year cant beat it
 

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Instead of starting a new thread...I was wondering what the readers experiences are with Amsoil synthetic oils. I purchased their 0W-30 "Signature Series" and their oil filter.

I cannot find any independent reviews on the web, just a lot of Amsoil sponsored information.

It looks like some of the readers in this post where going to try it and seeing this is an old post maybe they have already and have an opinion.
 

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If you read at the Bob is the Oil Guy Web site there are no bad 5W-20 oil due to the SM / GF-4 specs if you use normal OCI (oil change intervals) at 7.5k or less. I am no expert since I do not do testing for a living but I think if buy any name brand (pure regular, part synthetic, or full synthetic) and change at 5k you are on the conservative side even though Ford recommend 7.5k.

The good news is that Motorcraft (MC on the Internet) is available and reasonable at Walmart. It is made by Conoco-Phillips. Despite all the hoopla, few engines fail due to oil related problems if reasonably maintained. I think MC oil is a good choice if there was a warranty situation on the rare occasion. Keep your receipts.
It seems people now talk about top engine sound (valve chatter) when deciding on oils.
 

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Amsoil products are top notch and their oils are tested and analyzed (go to bobistheoilguy.com forums to see some UOAs from Amsoil products). The UOAs from Amsoil are second to none. I am currently running the Amsoil XL 5w-20 and it's been in the crankcase for 3,500 miles. I plan on running it another couple thousand and then send it in for an analysis. I have another oil change on it, then I plan to run a jug of Pennzoil Platinum I have and then buy Amsoil ASM 0W-20.

There are lots of good oils out there and most of them will produce very good UOAs. The difference is, most branded oils (like Motorcraft) can be reformulated with different additive packs at any time and there's no way for you to know if it's for the better or worse unless you send in a virgin sample for testing. With Amsoil, you always get quality additive packs with the consumer in mind since it is considered a "boutique" oil.

I don't deal Amsoil, but I am very confident in their products. I'd consider the 0W-20 if I were you. I know the SSO is new and it's a bit more, but you'll still stay in the 20 weight and save a few bucks. Seriously, go over to bobistheoilguy.com and educate yourself. There's so much info on lubrication on that website and you'll be enlightened.
 

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And the 5W-20 XL Amsoil is a grpIII oil and it is every bit as good, if not better, than any OTC "synthetic" you'll find. It's also priced at the levels of anything you'd pull off the shelf. There are very few PAO based oils anymore because it is more expensive than grpIII to produce. The reason some consider PAO based oils the true synthetic is because that is what Mobil used to use before synthetics were the craze (though some suspect they have since changed). The XL Amsoil is the only non-PAO based oil that Amsoil sells and it sells for less than the rest of their products.
 

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Here is a copy of my used oil analysis. The lower mileage sample is from Motorcraft bulk oil at the dealer, while the longer interval is the Valvoline Synpower. I kept the OCIs lower the first couple times due to the new engine, but I am now taking it out longer since it appears to be broken in nicely. Like I said, I'm currently at 3,500 on my Amsoil fill and I will probably go 5,500 or 6,000. There is no reason nowadays for people to stick to 3,000 mile OCIs. It's a marketing gimmick and it wastes money and resources that we definitely need to conserve. Of course mechanics, the oil industry and auto parts stores tell you 3K...they want your business. Nevermind Europeans have been doing three times that long for 20 plus years. I don't even believe there's a car manufacturer that will tell you change 3K...that's outdated.

 

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Why did you switch from Synpower to Amsoil?

If I read this analysis, the MC has more Barium and Boron and a higher viscosity. Were these both 5W-20 oils?

People need to realize that oils and engines have changed a lot. I suspect as oil prices increase we will follow Europe with even longer OCI's.
 

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[quote author=MKZman link=topic=89847.msg2152660#msg2152660 date=1205588014]
Why did you switch from Synpower to Amsoil?

If I read this analysis, the MC has more Barium and Boron and a higher viscosity. Were these both 5W-20 oils?

People need to realize that oils and engines have changed a lot. I suspect as oil prices increase we will follow Europe with even longer OCI's.
[/quote]

I got the Synpower on sale and it was a 5W-30. I switched to Amsoil because of their great products and the I wanted to back to the 5W-20. The MC was a 5W-20 but the Synpower was the 5W-30...hence the difference in viscosity...Synpower is the one on the left. The TBN of the Synpower was virtually the same as the MC despite the fact that it was run over 1000 miles more. This is what synthetics will do for you.

Engines and oils have changed TREMENDOUSLY. I try to tell people that. I work at an auto parts store part-time as a manager and I try to impart this info to customers, but people want to use "what I've been using for 30 years". It's as if they think technology hasn't changed and the product they used 20 years ago is much better. You try to give them facts but they go off of "my friend used so and so oil and he had sludge" stories...never mind there could be a million other things that caused that sludge, like fuel dilution, etc.

Engine clearances are much tighter nowadays, that is one of the reasons you see the thinner viscosities being spec'd by manufacturers. Today's SM rated oils are awesome and can go much farther than the old 3000 mile standby which everyone seems to still fall for...that's where that TBN comes in. That Synpower was at 3.7 TBN. A TBN of 1.0 means the oil life has been depleted and it should be changed. I could have taken that oil out another 2000 miles, at least. Today's conventional oils can go 5,000 miles...plenty of people take The Yellow Bottle out to 5 and even 7,500 with great results...you can see these analysis at bobistheoilguy.com. Again though, most don't like facts...they like to speculate and repeat old stories some old wrench turner repeated to them 20 years ago.
 

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[quote author=MKZman link=topic=89847.msg2152660#msg2152660 date=1205588014]
Why did you switch from Synpower to Amsoil?

If I read this analysis, the MC has more Barium and Boron and a higher viscosity. Were these both 5W-20 oils?

People need to realize that oils and engines have changed a lot. I suspect as oil prices increase we will follow Europe with even longer OCI's.
[/quote]

And yes, the Barium and Boron levels were higher in the MC because MC uses these as additives and the Synpower doesn't. Just different oils...

I'll post my 5,500-6,000 oil change interval with Amsoil in a couple months. Like I said, I have 3,500 on the oil now.
 

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Hey mrc, don't mean to hijack, but how do you go about sending in an oil analysis? I'd like to do one for my V6 and figure out a decent OCI.

Thanks!
 

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[quote author=UnderEstimated link=topic=89847.msg2155385#msg2155385 date=1205697872]
Hey mrc, don't mean to hijack, but how do you go about sending in an oil analysis? I'd like to do one for my V6 and figure out a decent OCI.

Thanks!
[/quote]

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/orders.html

Just order the kit, take a sample out of the middle of your drain and send it in :)
 
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