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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just went to best buy and they told me :

4 speakers
dual 10" sub woofer
sub box
6800 piioneer radio (deck)
4 channel amp
sub amp

+ installalation

= 1,600

Parts alone is about 1,100.  So they're charging me close to 500 for installation of everything in car.  That's the part I don't like about this deal.  The speaker/sub quality was pretty decent. Do you guys suggest me any other play other than BestBuy?

What do you guys think?  Suggestions? Opinions? Anybody done this in Best Buy already?
 

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I decided to go with what's most important, and then add to it down the road. I wasn't ready to drop $1k+ all at once. I added a MTX mono amp and 12" JL sub (amp from Crutchfield, sub/encl from Tweeter/HiFi Buys) for about $550 installed. I later updated the door speakers with Kenwoods from Crutchfield for another $120 (did the install myself- very easy). I have no intention of replacing my deck. You can see it all at www.cardomain.com - same username.

I've considered adding a 4 channel amp for my door speakers, but they seem loud and clean enough. Also, my sub puts out plenty of bass and it leaves me plenty of trunk space. I don't mean to sound like a commercial for Crutchfield, but they sell good stuff, give you free wiring harnesses and brackets, and lots of phone support. I've done several installs with their stuff and been very happy. I'd at the least go by a local car stereo shop and get a quote from them to compare to BB.
 

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I have found that best buy and circuit ciity seem to be way out of range on their prices. I usualy search the net for best prices and do the install myself. I know not everyone can do the install but see if anyone can help you wth the install and save some $$$$.
 

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crutchfeild is unbeatable. the prices may be a tad higher than some people. the the customer service is outstanding. once i bought a dvc sub from them and wired it wrong, which blew it in about a week. they took it back and gave me a new one, even though they new i blew it. payed shipping and everything.
 

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i got a 7" touchscreen panasonic dvd player and 2 sets of 180 watt Polk 5x7 for the doors and with installation and 2-year warranty on the whole system, it was 1200 at circuit city. the only reason i got the warrenty was in case i break the dvd screen (go figure) or blow the speakers, i get new ones!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
can you tell me what dvd screen it was ?

does it have subwoofer /amp controllers ? as well as EQ ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
boston acoustics have the best reviews...imo

I think i'll go with them...

what do you guys suggest for Subwoofer/monoamp ? Anyone out there got real nice woofers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey ming, I logged to crutchfield and this is what I got on my cart right now:

Kenwood KAC-9102D (Refurbished) 500W x 1 Car Amp

Alpine CDA-9856 CD/MP3/WMA Receiver

Alpine MRP-F250 40W x 4 Car Amplifier

Kicker Comp VR 05CVR124 12" Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coil Component Sub (2)

Q-Logic QLH-1.0012DS Double 12" Hatch/Trunk Box-Vol=1.0 cubic

Rockford Fosgate CP4DCKS Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit 4 gauge Power

Boston Acoustics S55 5-1/4" 2-way Speakers  (2 sets)

StreetWires ZN5250 Zero Noise 5 16.4-ft. Stereo Patch Cable

StreetWires UC12 per foot 12 gauge Blue/Silver Speaker Wire

Order Total $1,565.89  + TAX


Anyone got any suggestions? opinions?
 

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Wow Oreo, that's a full cart. The strangest thing happened, when I started comparing your list to the Crutchfield website, the amps and subs and total price changed on your post. Didn't you first have Infinity subs and Audiobahn amps. Weird....

I like all the equipment you've got listed. Here's the only changes I would make. First, my personal opinion is that amps should be the same brand, if for no other reason that aesthetics (they should match). I would try to get the same brand so they look good side by side in your install. I'd mentioned before about making sure your sub amp had a bass control, but that's not a problem since the Alpine head unit has it built in.

Also, just so you know, 2 12"
 

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OK, I hit "Post" by mistake so here's the rest of my thought.

Just so you know, 2 12" Kickers with 500W is bordering on overkill. I don't know your age and music taste (I'm 36 and prefer classic rock), but that combination is going to shake your fillings loose and wake the neighbors. Just wanted you to know in case you wanted to spend one subs money elsewhere.

The last thing I'd recommend is a power capacitor. It's recommended you have 1.0 Farad of cap for every 1000W of power. Just to be on the safe side, I'd probably get a 1.0 Farad Cap. FYI, a cap stores power, kind of like a battery, so when your amps need it- it supplies it instead of sucking it out of your car battery. It will extend the life of your battery and keep your headlights from dimming at night. Besides, they look killer in a nice install.

Last piece of advice- call Crutch and talk with one of their sales reps. They are very knowledgeable and will give you any additional ideas, and may steer you towards something that would work better. Let me know how it goes and good luck (by the way, I wish I had 1.5K to spend on my car).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Lol man sorry about that

I did have some old stuff posted, but I talked with a sales rep and they told me to change some stuff so I did hehe. Sorry about the modifying without telling. I'll take all ur recommendations into consideration. I like to listen to all kinds of music, from pop, rock, hip hop, reaggae...and that's what I was wondering, is this going to be massive bass all the way? But what I talked with a sales rep is that with the alp sub control I can level it down for all diff kinds of music that don't require that much bass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I forgot to mention on that last post...one guy told me I should change those dual 4 ohm kicker to dual 2 ohm kicker because of my mono amp.  I have no idea why, but I guess I'll follow recommendations?  Why is it ?
 

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Concerning subs and bass- I didn't look at the enclosure, but here's a good rule of thumb. A sealed box will give you more tight, controlled bass (a thump). A ported box (one with an opening or vent) will give you louder more boomy bass. Someone with a more technical background might explain the 4 vs 2 ohm question, but here's a try. A speaker that can handle a 2 ohm load will increase the power output of the amp (in non-technical terms). In other words, a 200W amp into 4 ohms might run 400W into a 2 ohm load. There's less resistence on the 2 ohm, but the sub has to be able to handle it. That's probably not a technically accurate explanation, but you get the idea.

I just got off a chat with Crutch about some questions I had. They give free advice, which is great, but they know I've bought from them several times in the past.

Let me know what you end up buying.
 

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in my zephyr I replaced all 4 doors with 5X7s polk audio db570s and amplified them with 4 channel amp. then added 2 12" Boston G5 subs. I then replaced the 5x7s with 2 pairs of components ( 6500s for fronts; 6000s rears) to get better imaging. My amps/ components are all elemental designs. they make very good stuff that is very reasonable price wise. If I will ever buy any car audio products I will go with elemental Designs again in a heart beat. I highly reccomend them.  http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php?cur=USD

If anyone wants any more information on what to buy you can pm me or post it in www.icix.com
I did all this with the stock HU.. you don't need to replace it.. It is a fine unit. My sound quality is awosome.

BTW I still have 2 pairs of polk audio db 570s (5X7s) that I only used for 2 months for sale. pm me if intersted
 

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What ever you do, dont buy the kicker COMPS, I ate about 4 if them already in two years. They come with very weak coils.


Kicker CVR's are awsome and so are the L5's or L7's. They hit good and last a good while.

[glow=red,2,300]Here is subs that are trash:[/glow]

Infinity
Sony
Poineer
Kicker Comp
Polk MM
Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1

These subs aren't the best hitters, and the cone material dont last that long and the coils will burn soon as you think. Me and my buddies already tested these last year. Thankfully one of the was the Manager of Circuit City and we got the good discount with warranty and we match the Amp for each sub. Gave it a 5 hour play everday with the volume no louder then 25.

Make sure you get your moneys worth, match the amp correctly with your OHM's, Watts, RMS, and spend extra for filtration for the mid's, a capacitor for your sub amps, and a good equalizer to get the sound really elite. And cant for get the warranty incase of any faulty equipment.
Is not a cheap up grade but hey, our cars deserve such good treatment since they take us where we want, and to our dates.

If you want further research go to the pro's or google it on audio forums and research it so you spend the money wisely with out a regret.
 

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Thanks for the input MidNite and Pkoko. I don't have a great deal of experience with subs, but I figured I would go for the best I could afford. I have the bottom end JL Audio, but in my mind bottom end JL is better than most companies mid-level products. Problem with JL is you can't buy it online- they will not sell through the internet.
 

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for comparison purposes only

jlw0= boston Accoustics G1, alpine type s; better than entry level kickers cvr;
jlw3v3= BA G3, alpine type r, ED Kv.2, AA Assasins
jlw6v2= BA G5 (they are really between w7 and w6v2), ED Ov.2, AA Avalance
JLW7= the best sub money can buy with good sound quality probably 2nd best diamond audio d9

pm for more info.. I personally see no reason to overpay for jl esspecially their entry level line. I personally would try ED Kv.2 line and get their amps.. please note that if you buy amps and subs you get 15% and 3yr waranty.
 
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