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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to do some custom stereo installs of a system in my car. I have wired PA systems, home theater, computers, etc. But all of the terminology and technique involved in Car audio puzzles me.

1. Can I keep the stock head unit for the meain time while installing new components (door speakers, subs, tweeters)?
2. When wiring speakers with a car amp (4channel for speakers --- mono for sub). Do you first run wire to the speaker from the amp, and then run wire from the head unit to the amp? Or am I completely wrong (thats how it is typically with a PA setup).
3. The last time that I took apart a factory head unit, all of the wires simply spliced into a giant plug, and that was the only thing that I had to plug into the head unit. Does re-wiring require me to remove different wires from the wiring harness and re connect them? Or is there a wiring harness that is premade for hooking up speakers to an amp.
4. What is the capacitor, and what is its function? I know alot of people are running caps, and I have no idea what they do (pardon my ignorance).
5. I see alot of people that are covering their door panels and firewalls with dynamat or fatman. I understand the concept of this, but where are the best places to apply (IE: The firewall -- Does this mean inside the wheel wells? Or simply poping the hood and sealing that section with the sound deadening stuff)

If someone could take the time to photoshop/paint a diagram for me, it would be much obliged.

Thanks for your help in advance, as always.
 
G

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1. Yes.
2. Does not matter.
3. Most are simple cut and splice on a new adapter or plug for a new headunit, relatively easy.
4. Capacitors store up large amounts of energy quickly and then quickly dump all that energy when the need arises for your subs. I would suggest getting one when you are pushing more then 500 watts.
5. I don't find the need for fatmat or dynamat, however you usually want to apply it on the inside of the door panels where you mount your speakers. Generally around or near your speakers is where you place the stuff.


I hope I answered all questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it does not matter how you wire the amps??

What comes from the head unit to the amp? Is it simply some of the wires in the harness that are split up and then ran to the amp?

Sorry, its just a bit confusing and different...
 
G

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You don't need to run anywires from the headunit, simply because you can't. Their are no rca outputs on the back of the headunit.

Your best bet is to splice into the rear door speaker wires and then you have to get a Line Output Converter which is made by Schosche. All your wires go into that and then you run RCA's from the Line Output Converter to your RCA inputs on the amp itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That makes total sense. If only car audio was as easy as PA systems/Home theater...

That does make sense though. So, to recap:

If I buy 4 new door speakers and isntall them. I use the stock lines, and run 4 seperate splices off to RCA connecters. These connecters then run into the amp, and the amp, thus completing the loop from the speakers to the amp, back to the head unit?

I assume, if I buy a new head unit, it has preamp outputs, so I just run the speakers to the amp w/ regular speaker cable , then the amp to the head unit using a RCA connector into the pre-amp slot?

As for the sub, is it possible to do the same thing with a sub and the stock system? I just love my steering wheel controls so much I dont want to lose them.

Thanks for your time Ryan, i really appreciate it.
 
G

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Ok, just to clarify anything and everything. I'm only talking about the subs right now.


If you get a new headunit, it will likely have preamp outputs. You could then just run the RCA cables from the new headunit all the way to the amp. That would be easiest.
 

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Since veryone else answered the first 4, Dynamat or (secondskin) helps so much. My one twelve inch sub makes my trunk rattle like crazy. Sound deadning is a must.
 

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[quote author=anarchyx link=topic=88043.msg1686349#msg1686349 date=1188834928]
I'm looking to do some custom stereo installs of a system in my car. I have wired PA systems, home theater, computers, etc. But all of the terminology and technique involved in Car audio puzzles me.

1. Can I keep the stock head unit for the meain time while installing new components (door speakers, subs, tweeters)?
2. When wiring speakers with a car amp (4channel for speakers --- mono for sub). Do you first run wire to the speaker from the amp, and then run wire from the head unit to the amp? Or am I completely wrong (thats how it is typically with a PA setup).
3. The last time that I took apart a factory head unit, all of the wires simply spliced into a giant plug, and that was the only thing that I had to plug into the head unit. Does re-wiring require me to remove different wires from the wiring harness and re connect them? Or is there a wiring harness that is premade for hooking up speakers to an amp.
4. What is the capacitor, and what is its function? I know alot of people are running caps, and I have no idea what they do (pardon my ignorance).
5. I see alot of people that are covering their door panels and firewalls with dynamat or fatman. I understand the concept of this, but where are the best places to apply (IE: The firewall -- Does this mean inside the wheel wells? Or simply poping the hood and sealing that section with the sound deadening stuff)

If someone could take the time to photoshop/paint a diagram for me, it would be much obliged.

Thanks for your help in advance, as always.
[/quote]

1- yes you can keep stock HU. You will need to remove the HU from the dash inorder to splice the wires at the back to LOC. I personally reccomend a good quality LOC like Navacone's. You will probabily need the 4 channel version; since you need to amplify all 4 speakers.
2- the wirring set up is as follows:
HU Signal --(regular wire)--> LOC--(RCAs)--> AMP--(regular wire)--> speakers
3- see #1 & 2
4- A capacitor is needed to relieve the car's electric system from high current draw durring big bass notes. I would reccomend 1 farad for every 1000W RMS & only get one if you running more than 500-700 W rms.
5- this sound deaderner's job is to stop rattes and improve midbass response. Good places to deadnen are doors and rear trunk lid. I personally have elemental designs edead in my car and it is good material.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alot of good information, I really appreciate ALL of it!

I guess the best way to really figure everything out is to tear up my car and start foolin around :)
 
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