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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Isnt life great. I got hit today while leaving the parking lot at work. This women let me go in front of her car and then ran into me while I was waiting to leave. And this only the second week Ive had it. She hit me on the right side of the rear bumper. luckily it didnt break anything it just tore up the plastis a little, it couldve been alot worse. Its just frustrating.
 

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Total bummer.
 

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[quote author=chrissmallwood link=topic=66613.msg1143054#msg1143054 date=1168467000]
Well Isnt life great. I got hit today while leaving the parking lot at work. This women let me go in front of her car and then ran into me while I was waiting to leave. And this only the second week Ive had it. She hit me on the right side of the rear bumper. luckily it didnt break anything it just tore up the plastis a little, it couldve been alot worse. Its just frustrating.
[/quote]

Hi chris. I am very sorry to hear about your car. Happy to hear that it should be easily repairable.
Just a little added information to help you out. Collect for the damages from the other drivers company, not under your policy's Collision coverage. You will not have to pay your Collision deductible this way.
If you collect under your Collision, you will have to pay your deductible. If it is determined the accident was not your fault, you will "usually" get it back later when your company subrogates the claim against the other company. But do not put yourself in the position to be "screwed".
Next bit of advice. And please, nobody need get angry at me, I am only citing Insurance regulations, not my opinion. The law is the law. Insurance companies do not pay "extra $$" to cover depreciation. You are entitled to the amount of money needed to have your car repaired properly, no more, no less. There is no "depreciation" if the car is repaired properly. Also, your car's value does not decrease, especially in a case like this where it seems to be only cosmetic damage to the bumper cap. Of course, if the repairs are done improperly, or in a shoddy manner, the fixed area will be obvious to a future buyer. So be sure you have it repaired properly at a reputable body shop.
5 years down the road, if someone says "I pulled up a Carfax report and saw your car was in an accident, so I want you to take some money off", you tell them nicely that the car was properly repaired, this is my price and if you don't want to pay it, go scratch.
I just don't want you to have unrealistic expectations of what you will receive to fix the damage.
Good luck with the repairs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks I dont expect to get any more than what will cover the repair. Id just be happy to get it fixed properly. She was just sitting there and then all of a sudden she took off and hit me, she admitted it was her fault so her insurance will be paying for it. so hopefully it will all work out.
 

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Thanks for the info bbf2530 on the insurance regs. I was just going by something an insurance guy told me one time when I was hit by someone else, and I was concerned about the depreciation. They ended up totaling the car, so depreciation wasn't a problem. Unfortunately, I do still feel that any subsequent buyer will consider the car "damaged goods", even if the damage wasn't significant. I know I wouldn't pay full dollar for a car that had body damage- would you??
 

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[quote author=ming321 link=topic=66613.msg1143717#msg1143717 date=1168488684]
Thanks for the info bbf2530 on the insurance regs. I was just going by something an insurance guy told me one time when I was hit by someone else, and I was concerned about the depreciation. They ended up totaling the car, so depreciation wasn't a problem. Unfortunately, I do still feel that any subsequent buyer will consider the car "damaged goods", even if the damage wasn't significant. I know I wouldn't pay full dollar for a car that had body damage- would you??
[/quote]

Hi ming321. Yes, I agree with you. However, I would also consider that you, me, and other members of forums like this one, are more educated automobile buyers (and sellers! :D). Also, the type and extent of the previous accident, and the quality of repairs are most important.
A smart buyer will try to use the fact that a car was in a past accident to his advantage. A smart seller, who knows it was correctly repaired, will not allow himself to be talked down in price.
In a situation like this, I like to quote my Father (a very intelligent and hard working man, who worked for Ford, and has passed on), "Never buy a used car if you can avoid it. You will only be buying someone else's problems." So far, I have been lucky enough in my life to be able to follow his advice. I wish you the same luck. :cheers:
 

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That sucks. I almost got plowed today by a crazy woman driving a mercedes suv (snow and ice today she pulled out and slid) I had to swerve into the next lane temporarily to avoid getting hit and then quickly get back into the lane so I didn't get hit in the other!
 

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Man, I know all to well how bad it sucks having your Fusion hit (or totaled).

I'm glad it's only a small accident, and you didn't get hurt. Best of luck with getting it fixed!
 

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[quote ] There is no "depreciation" if the car is repaired properly. [/quote]

Maybe not in his case but if an airbag is deployed in an accident there is.
It's considered a "major" collision and if a dealer runs a car fax if you're trading it in or asks while doing an appraisel on your trade if the air bag was ever deployed they will automatically "ding" you for "at least" a grand if not more.
I had three different dealers tell me this after I asked when my FUSION was hit on the freeway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To SoCalFusion

Luckily in the accident it wasnt very bad. The airbags did not go off and nothing was actually damaged except the paint and plastic was roughed up on the rear bumper. I am not to worried about depreciation since there is no structural damage or anything being replaced.
 

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[quote author=SoCalFusion link=topic=66613.msg1160509#msg1160509 date=1169372607]
[quote ] There is no "depreciation" if the car is repaired properly. [/quote]
Maybe not in his case but if an airbag is deployed in an accident there is.
It's considered a "major" collision and if a dealer runs a car fax if you're trading it in or asks while doing an appraisel on your trade if the air bag was ever deployed they will automatically "ding" you for "at least" a grand if not more.
I had three different dealers tell me this after I asked when my FUSION was hit on the freeway.
[/quote]



Hi SoCalFusion. I work with Insurance Companies quite regularly. There is no depreciation if a car is repaired correctly.

What you are speaking of is an entirely different subject. When you are trading in a car, the Dealer will "ding" you if you put your left shoe on before the right. They will "ding" you if you wear black on Wednesday. They will "ding" you for whatever you are foolish enough to allow yourself to be "dinged" for. It is part of their business to "ding" you out of every dollar they can. Trust me, they are not lowering the price of that same car by "at least a grand" when they sell it to the next buyer off their lot. They are charging full retail, plus.
The moral of the story is, never trade your car in, unless you have no choice. In most cases you can sell the car for much more yourself (if you don't procrastinate until the last minute). More than enough to make up for any sales tax losses. The Dealer is not our friend, they are in business to make every penny they can.
Good luck everyone.
 

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[/quote]
Hi SoCalFusion. I work with Insurance Companies quite regularly. There is no depreciation if a car is repaired correctly.

What you are speaking of is an entirely different subject. When you are trading in a car, the Dealer will "ding" you if you put your left shoe on before the right. They will "ding" you if you wear black on Wednesday. They will "ding" you for whatever you are foolish enough to allow yourself to be "dinged" for. It is part of their business to "ding" you out of every dollar they can. Trust me, they are not lowering the price of that same car by "at least a grand" when they sell it to the next buyer off their lot. They are charging full retail, plus.
The moral of the story is, never trade your car in, unless you have no choice. In most cases you can sell the car for much more yourself (if you don't procrastinate until the last minute). More than enough to make up for any sales tax losses. The Dealer is not our friend, they are in business to make every penny they can.
Good luck everyone.[/quote]

I don't think you understand my point.
I'm well aware that a dealer will try to give you the LEAST anmount he can for your trade, BUT If a dealer takes my car in trade, and customer requests a car Fax or they GIVE a car Fax with the car, MOST customers won't WANT the car IF they find out it's been in a major collision.
I know I wouldn't.
So naturally the dealer will give you LESS for your trade BECAUSE it'll be much tougher to SELL a car like that.
 

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[quote author=SoCalFusion link=topic=66613.msg1162077#msg1162077 date=1169457345]

I don't think you understand my point.
I'm well aware that a dealer will try to give you the LEAST anmount he can for your trade, BUT If a dealer takes my car in trade, and customer requests a car Fax or they GIVE a car Fax with the car, MOST customers won't WANT the car IF they find out it's been in a major collision.
I know I wouldn't.
So naturally the dealer will give you LESS for your trade BECAUSE it'll be much tougher to SELL a car like that.
[/quote]

Hi SoCal Fusion. Actually, I understood what you were saying very clearly. It's just that you are mistaken, and I think you are not completely understanding what I am saying.
It's ironic that you are arguing a point (and quoting three Dealers as your source of information) that allows you to be ripped off by a Dealer. Of course the Dealers will tell you that. They will give you less money for any reason that you will believe and not question. Just more proof of why we should not trade in our old cars. We all need to be both educated buyers and sellers. Essentially, I am trying to educate you in how not to be robbed, and you are telling me that you are content being robbed because that is the way it has to be. Do not allow yourself to be ripped off.
As I and others have stated on the boards many times, in general the average car buyer is not as car smart as those of us on these forums. They do not get CarFax reports, they trade their old cars in to Dealers when they buy a new car (because it is easier and they don't know any better), instead of selling it on their own, and they don't ask the questions, nor have the general knowledge that car enthusiasts do.
Think about your point for a moment. If a knowledgeable buyer "won't want" the car because it was in an accident, they are not even coming in with a CarFax report to haggle over price. They "won't want" the car. The Dealer is selling to the buyer that does not ask the questions, and does not even know what a CarFax report is. Trust me, there are a lot more of them out there, than buyers who show up with CarFax reports.
The same Dealer that "dings" you for "at least a thousand dollars", will sell your old car for full retail plus to the next buyer that comes in to buy it off the used car lot. They are not discounting it because it was in an accident.
You don't really believe that the Dealer is going to tell that buyer, "Well, it was in an accident, and we ripped off the guy who traded it in for a thousand bucks, so we'll give it to you for a thousand less than retail also."
It is really very simple. There is no depreciation if a car has been repaired correctly. Now if the buyer, whether a Dealer or a private buyer can point out some defects that were not correctly repaired, that is different. Of course they are going to try and talk you down. But that is a case of incorrect or faulty repairs. I am talking about a correct and complete repair job.
In addition, why would you trade a car in anyway, unless you could not get a private buyer? If you have a friend at any of those Dealerships, they will tell you the same thing. You trade in, you set yourself up to be robbed.
Sometimes a point is not really debatable. If you read any expert advice on new car buying and used car selling, they will all tell you the same thing.
Seriously, if you do some research, you will see. Good luck SoCalFusion.

PS - I hope you understand I am just trying to help, by correcting a common misconception, so please do not get angry at me. :cheers:
 

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As far as trading in cars goes, I know that I won't get what I want for it when I go to buy a Fusion. However, I really don't have much of a choice. I'm single and have just one car. Chances are very high that I will have to order the one I want because there's not a Fusion in a 5 county radius that has the color/options set that I want. Renting a car for a long period of time would negate any benefit of selling it.
 

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[quote author=HoosierInFL link=topic=66613.msg1163220#msg1163220 date=1169512121]
As far as trading in cars goes, I know that I won't get what I want for it when I go to buy a Fusion. However, I really don't have much of a choice. I'm single and have just one car. Chances are very high that I will have to order the one I want because there's not a Fusion in a 5 county radius that has the color/options set that I want. Renting a car for a long period of time would negate any benefit of selling it.
[/quote]

Hi Hoosier. Just a few helpful tips that have proved useful for me in the past. They may prove useful for you, or they may not. Hopefully they will help someone. :D

As soon as you know you will be ordering a new car, figure out how much your car is worth in a trade in, and a private sale
( www.kbb.com ).

Then have the Dealer tell you how much they will give you on your trade in.

Decide on a price that makes selling privately worth your while (including sales tax ramifications). Then put "For Sale" signs on your car.

You now have 6-8 weeks to find a private buyer.

You let any prospective buyers know that they will need to wait until your new car arrives, before they can take possession of your old car. You print up a basic contract and take a deposit. If they are willing to pay your asking price and wait, you just made extra money towards your new car.

If you can not find a buyer who is willing to wait, you trade in the car when the new one arrives. It is a no lose proposition. If you get a private buyer, great! If not, it didn't cost you a dime, and you trade it in!

Just trying to make you a little extra money. I hope this advice helps. It's always worked for me.

Good luck! :klavergreg:

PS - I have always been able to get a buyer willing to wait when I needed to. (I keep my cars in mint condition).
 

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Hi SoCal Fusion. Actually, I understood what you were saying very clearly. It's just that you are mistaken, and I think you are not completely understanding what I am saying.
It's ironic that you are arguing a point (and quoting three Dealers as your source of information) that allows you to be ripped off by a Dealer. Of course the Dealers will tell you that. They will give you less money for any reason that you will believe and not question. Just more proof of why we should not trade in our old cars. We all need to be both educated buyers and sellers. Essentially, I am trying to educate you in how not to be robbed, and you are telling me that you are content being robbed because that is the way it has to be. Do not allow yourself to be ripped off.
As I and others have stated on the boards many times, in general the average car buyer is not as car smart as those of us on these forums. They do not get CarFax reports, they trade their old cars in to Dealers when they buy a new car (because it is easier and they don't know any better), instead of selling it on their own, and they don't ask the questions, nor have the general knowledge that car enthusiasts do.
Think about your point for a moment. If a knowledgeable buyer "won't want" the car because it was in an accident, they are not even coming in with a CarFax report to haggle over price. They "won't want" the car. The Dealer is selling to the buyer that does not ask the questions, and does not even know what a CarFax report is. Trust me, there are a lot more of them out there, than buyers who show up with CarFax reports.
The same Dealer that "dings" you for "at least a thousand dollars", will sell your old car for full retail plus to the next buyer that comes in to buy it off the used car lot. They are not discounting it because it was in an accident.
You don't really believe that the Dealer is going to tell that buyer, "Well, it was in an accident, and we ripped off the guy who traded it in for a thousand bucks, so we'll give it to you for a thousand less than retail also."
It is really very simple. There is no depreciation if a car has been repaired correctly. Now if the buyer, whether a Dealer or a private buyer can point out some defects that were not correctly repaired, that is different. Of course they are going to try and talk you down. But that is a case of incorrect or faulty repairs. I am talking about a correct and complete repair job.
In addition, why would you trade a car in anyway, unless you could not get a private buyer? If you have a friend at any of those Dealerships, they will tell you the same thing. You trade in, you set yourself up to be robbed.
Sometimes a point is not really debatable. If you read any expert advice on new car buying and used car selling, they will all tell you the same thing.
Seriously, if you do some research, you will see. Good luck SoCalFusion.

PS - I hope you understand I am just trying to help, by correcting a common misconception, so please do not get angry at me. :cheers:
[/quote]

Hey Bro!
I'm not angry at all. I understand your point perfectly, like I said I know a dealer will try and give you the LEAST amount possible for a car (I'm 46 years old and have owned about 55 cars although not all bought at a dealer)
I don't know about New Jersey but out here in Southern Cal almost ALL dealers GIVE OUT a car fax with their used cars so a customer AUTOMATICALLY knows if a vehicle has been in a major accident/flood ect........I'm not saying I'd LET a dealer screw me by giving me less money for my trade, but you have to fight him over it because his excuse WILL be that it will be harder to sell a car that has been in a major collision, and he's actually right. (not that I'd agree with him)
 

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bbf2530, I've seen you post a few times of the money to be saved by selling a car privately vs. trading. While this may be true if you are trading an older vehicle on a new one, it isn't really true of trading a 1-3 year old car on a new one. For example, if I were to sell my '06 Fusion for full KBB private party retail value, which isn't very likely, and buy an equally optioned '07 Fusion, I would come out about $20 AHEAD by trading and getting KBB trade in value for the car. Add in the aggravation of selling a car privately, and I certainly don't see the advantage of it.

Keep in mind, I'm a former car salesman, so I know all the ways the dealer will try and make the deal more profitable for themselves. Knowing these things, it's still my OPINION that you can get just as good a deal by trading a newer car, that you get by selling it yourself, and you save yourself the hassle of making yourself available for people to look at your car.
 

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[quote author=hwm3 link=topic=66613.msg1163668#msg1163668 date=1169523713]
bbf2530, I've seen you post a few times of the money to be saved by selling a car privately vs. trading. While this may be true if you are trading an older vehicle on a new one, it isn't really true of trading a 1-3 year old car on a new one. For example, if I were to sell my '06 Fusion for full KBB private party retail value, which isn't very likely, and buy an equally optioned '07 Fusion, I would come out about $20 AHEAD by trading and getting KBB trade in value for the car. Add in the aggravation of selling a car privately, and I certainly don't see the advantage of it.

Keep in mind, I'm a former car salesman, so I know all the ways the dealer will try and make the deal more profitable for themselves. Knowing these things, it's still my OPINION that you can get just as good a deal by trading a newer car, that you get by selling it yourself, and you save yourself the hassle of making yourself available for people to look at your car.
[/quote]



Hi hwm3. And I respect your opinion. If you re-read my posts, I state the pros and cons, and then tell whoever is reading my opinion, to do their own addition and subtraction, and then decide what is best for them. My advice comes from the owner of the local Ford Dealership, who was a good friend of my Father's.

I have always been able to sell my cars privately, and make a handsome amount over any deal I could negotiate on a trade in (including the sales tax variables, at least $1500 per transaction over the 31 years I have been a driver).
And my used vehicles were all in the 2-5 year range (except for one) over the years I have been driving. But as I have stated, I keep my cars in mint condition (which is not the same case for everyone).

As I have said repeatedly, my advice will work better for some, and yours will work better for others. Neither one of us is wrong. It depends on the individual, their circumstances, knowledge, time and effort they wish to put into keeping money in their pocket.

The beauty of what I am advising, is that you can put for sale signs on your car, and put it on the market, if you get the price you are looking for, great, you made some extra money. If you don't, you trade it in and get what you would have received from the Dealer anyway. So what exactly does anyone have to lose?

If they do it your way, they will never know, they will just be at the mercy of the Dealer.

It's really up to the individual who reads our opinions, wouldn't you agree!

My feelings will not be hurt if someone agrees with your opinion, and yours should not be hurt if someone wants to try what has worked for me. Your figures and experience have been the polar opposite of mine. That is what makes America such a great country, we can all do what is best for us!

Good luck hwm3! :cheers:

PS - As a former car salesman, you also know that auto dealers do not use the Kelley Blue Book (at least not here in NJ), they use a book which quotes lower trade in prices, and then lower their offer even more.
 
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