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Hey guys ive done the Royal purple Max ATF transmission fluid change on both on our Mazda 6 and ford fusion. 25000miles later its still shifting smooth like butter. Royal purple tech told me they have ran these cars for hundred thousands of miles with no problems. The stock fluid on my fusion shifted ok. Changed it at 5K miles with RP max ATF shifts like butter even compared with the stock fluid. Mazda 6 now has 78000miles still shifting like new. These cars transmission fluid are so easy to change i recommend doing them every 30K cause they get dirty pretty quickly.
 

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O.K....now I'm really confused Jtugfestiva :shock:, I was looking for a synthetic fluid when I had mine done, but....

From Royal Purple's site;
"Please note: Max ATF is not recommended or an approved warranty replacement for:
Aisin Warner AW-1, Ford Type F, Ford Mercon SP & Mercon LV, GM Dexron VI, Mercedes Benz MB 236.12 & 236.14, Shell M1375.4 (ZF 6-Speed AT) and Toyota WS.
Max ATF is not recommended for use in any CVT applications."

Isn't the Ford Fusion (2006-2009) six speed a 'Ford type F'? (Aisin AF21/TF81SC) which there website does not recommend?

Yet if you read their 'recommended' approvals, they list 'JWS 3309' & 'Toyota T-IV', what's up with that?

What am I missing here....

Rej
 

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[quote author=Rej link=topic=82464.msg3877936#msg3877936 date=1291773317]
O.K....now I'm really confused Jtugfestiva :shock:, I was looking for a synthetic fluid when I had mine done, but....

From Royal Purple's site;
"Please note: Max ATF is not recommended or an approved warranty replacement for:
Aisin Warner AW-1, Ford Type F, Ford Mercon SP & Mercon LV, GM Dexron VI, Mercedes Benz MB 236.12 & 236.14, Shell M1375.4 (ZF 6-Speed AT) and Toyota WS.
Max ATF is not recommended for use in any CVT applications."

Isn't the Ford Fusion (2006-2009) six speed a 'Ford type F'? (Aisin AF21/TF81SC) which there website does not recommend?

Yet if you read their 'recommended' approvals, they list 'JWS 3309' & 'Toyota T-IV', what's up with that?

What am I missing here....

Rej
[/quote]

Hi Rej. :wavey: According to Ford's Owner Warranty Guide and Ford's fluid specifications as listed right in the Owners Manual, to protect your Warranty rights while the vehicle is still covered under Warranty, the transmission fluid used in the 2007 Ford Fusion 3.0 V-6 must meet the Ford specification as listed in the Owners Manual. That specification is "WSS-M2C924-A". If the bottle/container does not specifically state that the fluid "Meets or exceeds" that "WSS-M2C924-A" specification, it is not an approved fluid.

Now naturally, once your vehicle is out of Warranty what you use is up to you. However, be careful of marketing speak by fluid manufacturers which will state that "This fluid is compatible with...", "This fluid can be used in...", etc. etc.. If a fluid does not specifically state that it "meets and/or exceeds..." the specific manufacturers specification (in your case, "WSS-M2C924-A"), then it has not been tested and approved for use in that vehicles transmission. No matter what anyone may tell you otherwise.

But again, once you are out of Warranty (which you may or may not be with the 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain, or an extended Warranty), you can use what you want. But in my opinion, why take the chance?

Hope this information helps.

Good luck. :cheers:
 

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Thanks for the info bbf.... Yes, I am out of the warranty as I bought the car used with 120K Km's on it, so I was looking for something 'better/synthetic' that was approved?

Do you know of any or had any experience with synthetic ATF's that you would recommend for my 6 speed?

Rej
 

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[quote author=Rej link=topic=82464.msg3878007#msg3878007 date=1291778547]
Thanks for the info bbf.... Yes, I am out of the warranty as I bought the car used with 120K Km's on it, so I was looking for something 'better/synthetic' that was approved?

Do you know of any or had any experience with synthetic ATF's that you would recommend for my 6 speed?

Rej
[/quote]

Hi Rej. :wavey: Offhand no, I don't recall at the moment any "better/synthetics" that are "WSS-M2C924-A" approved. Does not mean there aren't any, I just have had no need to research the subject lately.

However, this is not a new discussion, and I do recall some names being thrown around in the past as far as the major manufacturers (maybe Mobil1?). You can try a site search for "WSS-M2C924-A", "transmission fluids", "synthetic transmission fluids" etc..

I would also highly recommend checking the major fluid manufacturers websites for their specification charts. If they list a synthetic fluid that "meets and/or exceeds" the Ford specification (or very similar wording), you are good to go.

EDIT - I decided to do a quick Google of "WSS-M2C924-A". Among other websites, I came up with this Mobil1 site stating that it does have a Ford "WSS-M2C924-A" specification approval (among others) for its Mobil1 ATF 3309 fluid: www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/resources/docs/nausenpvlmomobil_atf_3309.pdf. However, I am not sure if it is anan actual synthetic or not.

If you Google the "WSS-M2C924-A" spec and go through the first few pages of results, you can also get some more "non-major" fluid brand listings. Or, you can simply use the Motorcraft version and save yourself a lot of searching. Completely up to you.

If I can come up with any other useful information, I will be sure and post it here for you.

Hope this information helps.

Good luck. :cheers:
 

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I remember coming across this post not long ago that referenced an article on the AW 6 speed FWD transmission. On page 49 there were several suggested "correct" fluids to use in this trans (such as XT-8QAW Ford, T-IV, etc.) but it also stated that "Mobil 1, ESSO, or Castrol full synthetic are aftermarket alternatives'. This left me with the impression that a full synthetic is an acceptable replacement for the recommended Ford fluid.

http://www.fordfusionclub.com/index.php?topic=182183.0

I understand the wisdom of following the manual, but at the same time I don't expect the Ford manual to list every (or any) aftermarket fluids either. Yet none of the full synthetic brands I could find stated that they were WSS-M2C924-A approved - at least in the US. I found a few available in other countries that stated they were WSS-M2C924-A approved. One of them is Mobil 3309 - described as a synthetic - but it's in Lithuania, for whatever that is worth...

http://www.mobil1.lt/en/produktai/automobiliu-alyvos-ir-tepalai/automatiniu-transmisiju-alyvos/

Here's another in Australia:

www.nulon.com.au/files/productbulletins/PB-SYNATF.pdf

I wish that article in the first link was a bit more clear on why those synthetic alternatives are ok, when there doesn't seem to be any other source to back it up - at least for the Ford version of the 6 speed. Or why there seem to be compatible synthetics out there - but just not in the US...
 

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Would it be a bad idea to flush a tranny with only 14,000 (albeit rental car) miles? It shifts hard occasionally, usually when I'm accelerating and then let off the accelerator, comments?
 

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[quote author=icon5585 link=topic=82464.msg3918523#msg3918523 date=1296232682]
Would it be a bad idea to flush a tranny with only 14,000 (albeit rental car) miles? It shifts hard occasionally, usually when I'm accelerating and then let off the accelerator, comments?
[/quote]

Hi icon. :wavey: Would it be a "bad idea"? No, of course not. It certainly will not hurt anything to do so, as long as you replace it with an approved fluid which meets the Ford specification ("WSS-M2C924-A", as mentioned in the above posts).

That being said: If the current fluid is not discolored, does not smell burnt or exhibit any of the other telltale signs of transmission/transmission fluid trouble, then a fluid change.flush is not really necessary.

With 14,000 miles on a 2010 model, are we safe in assuming that the car is still covered by either the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper or 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranties? If that is correct and you have concerns about the shift quality, I would advise bringing it in for a proper inspection and diagnosis of any issues. Why spend money out of pocket if it may not be necessary?

Of course, if it will help you rest easier to change the fluid, then do so. It is up to you.

Whatever you decide to do, let us know how you make out and good luck. :cheers:
 

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I recently flushed my transmission with Mobil ATF 3309. I have a 2006 V6 with the 6 speed auto, 90K miles. The old fluid didn't look or smell terrible but was, in my opinion, ready for a change. Shifting is noticeably smoother. No problems after 4K miles. For anyone interested, here's the DIY procedure:

Note: this procedure assumes proper fill level prior to starting the flush.

Drain the transmission pan and add the same amount of fluid back.

Find the transmission cooler lines where they connect to the tranny. One curves toward the drivers side and one points straight up. The one that points straight up is the one you want. Disconnect the rubber hose from the metal tube on this line. Using a smaller or larger hose, connect to the rubber hose you just disconnected and direct your new hose to a container to catch the fluid as the transmission pumps it out.

Start the engine and let it run until the fluid stops flowing.

Measure what came out and add the same amount to the transmission.

Start the engine again and let it pump out what you just added. Repeat this any number of times based on the amount of fluid you bought. Also, be sure to cycle the transmission through all the gears at least once while it is pumping the fluid out.

Just remember to always add the same amount that you took out and cycle through the gears at least once. Also, check your fluid level per the owners manual and adjust as necessary.

I used one case of 3309 for my flush and by the end, the fluid coming out looked the same as the fluid going in.

Total cost doing it myself: $42.97 for the fluid. This is really very easy to do yourself.
 

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[quote author=shawn_75 link=topic=82464.msg4088404#msg4088404 date=1312661284]
I recently flushed my transmission with Mobil ATF 3309. I have a 2006 V6 with the 6 speed auto, 90K miles. The old fluid didn't look or smell terrible but was, in my opinion, ready for a change. Shifting is noticeably smoother. No problems after 4K miles. For anyone interested, here's the DIY procedure:

Note: this procedure assumes proper fill level prior to starting the flush.

Drain the transmission pan and add the same amount of fluid back.

Find the transmission cooler lines where they connect to the tranny. One curves toward the drivers side and one points straight up. The one that points straight up is the one you want. Disconnect the rubber hose from the metal tube on this line. Using a smaller or larger hose, connect to the rubber hose you just disconnected and direct your new hose to a container to catch the fluid as the transmission pumps it out.

Start the engine and let it run until the fluid stops flowing.

Measure what came out and add the same amount to the transmission.

Start the engine again and let it pump out what you just added. Repeat this any number of times based on the amount of fluid you bought. Also, be sure to cycle the transmission through all the gears at least once while it is pumping the fluid out.

Just remember to always add the same amount that you took out and cycle through the gears at least once. Also, check your fluid level per the owners manual and adjust as necessary.

I used one case of 3309 for my flush and by the end, the fluid coming out looked the same as the fluid going in.

Total cost doing it myself: $42.97 for the fluid. This is really very easy to do yourself.
[/quote]

I do it slightly differently. The way you do it presents a slight risk by pumping all the fluid out.

Find the outlet line from the trans cooler. Have someone tickle the starter (and immediately shut down) if needed to confirm the correct hook up. Attach a hose. I use clear plactic cheap stuff from the hardware store, about 6 feet of it, usually 3/8" diameter, but whatever it takes to have a good hook-up. Drop the hose into a 5 gallon bucket. I calibrated the bucket and marked it off by quarts.

To calibrate the bucket, fill a quart jar with water and use a Sharpe pen to mark the spot on the bucket and repeat up to about 15 quarts. Dump the water and dry out the bucket.

The fluid tends to flow rather quickly so I recommend having an assistant in the car to start and then shut down the engine on your command. I have done it by myself, but it is more controlled with help.

Remove the transmission dipstick. Insert transmission funnel. Start engine and allow fuid into bucket. Add new fluid at about the same rate as the old fluid is leaving. It doesn't hert to move the transmission through the gears while doing this, but do it in a safe manner with the engine at idle and one foot firmly on the brake. You will not be able to get into all circuits without driving so this part of the exercise is limited anyway.

If the old fluid was in pretty good shape, replace the quantity of fluid as specified by the factory. If it was somewhat raunchy, keep puming and adding until the fluid coming out is as pristine as the fluid going in. That may take an additional 2 to 5 quarts.

Shut it down. Reconnect the lines. Start the engine and top and adjsut fluid level as needed. You should be very close as you could tell how many quarts went into the bucket.
 

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I'm not trying to pi** you off but, what's the big deal with pumping a little air? Really, it's a gear type pump, it is still thouroughly coated in transmission fluid providing sufficient lubrication. This thing is not some kind of super advanced super precision instrument, it's an automotive transmission. It's not like I'm letting it run for a few minutes pumping air.
 

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[quote author=shawn_75 link=topic=82464.msg4088438#msg4088438 date=1312664638]
I'm not trying to pi** you off but, what's the big deal with pumping a little air? Really, it's a gear type pump, it is still thouroughly coated in transmission fluid providing sufficient lubrication. This thing is not some kind of super advanced super precision instrument, it's an automotive transmission. It's not like I'm letting it run for a few minutes pumping air.
[/quote]

Please note that I said slight risk.

Of the many shops I have worked in, a few of them allowed the fluid to run dry and allowed it to run that way while they were off attending something else without any immediate side effects. I didn't permit anyone working for me to do that though, mailnly because of how much it was stressed not to by one of my training instructors.

I'm only offering an alternative, and I'm not upset. I hope you are not upset. I did not intend to do that.
 

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Not upset, just sometimes frustrated with the way some folks here overcomplicate things. I understand the amount of money we all spend on our automobiles and nobody wants to do something that damages it but in the end it is still just a car, a Ford production car, not even remotely exotic. I have a somewhat unique viewpoint as where I work, a military training site, we buy running junkyard cars for use with military training. These cars can be rammed by a hummer, crashed into each other, etc... We maintain these cars to a degree and many of them are early 2000's models so plenty of current technology. You would be surprised how long a car can live with WAY under the correct amount of oil, just enough coolant, and OMG, the WRONG weight oil added. BTW, I've been running Mobil1 15W40 in my Fuse since 12K miles, currently at 94K. I do appreciate using the correct transmission fluid as this can play hell with the bands.
 

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So called the ford parts department dealer. They say I use a full synthetic trans fluid. $8.00 a quart.
To get 9 quarts if i am flushing it.
Hmmmn wonder if the mobil1 synthetic ATF would work In place of It? Verse Mobil ATF 3309.
 

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[quote author=fus10 link=topic=82464.msg4089935#msg4089935 date=1312905594]
So called the ford parts department dealer. They say I use a full synthetic trans fluid. $8.00 a quart.
To get 9 quarts if i am flushing it.
Hmmmn wonder if the mobil1 synthetic ATF would work In place of It? Verse Mobil ATF 3309.
[/quote]

Hi fus10. :wavey: You need to look up the Ford spec for the particular fluid in your particular transmission. The Ford specification is located in the fluids/lubrication charts which is in the "Maintenance and Specifications" section of your Owners Manual. Once you have the Ford specification, you see if that specification is listed on the container of Mobil1 Synthetic ATF/Mobil ATF 3309. If the Ford spec is listed, then you can use it. If it is not, then you can not/should not. I can tell you that those Mobil1 transmission fluids meet the specs of some Ford transmissions, but not others. Plus, specifications will vary over the years, so don't take the word of others, check your Owners Manual to be sure of what you need.

Good luck. :cheers:
 

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*UPDATE*

Just did the second ATF change on the niece's '06, at 60,000 miles. Actually, it was 2 drain & fills back-to-back, driving it around the block in between.

Used Toyota T-IV again and the fluid was pretty much the same as the first change at 30,000: dark, like port wine, but clear and normal-smelling with just a slight bit of metal sludge on the magnet. I think 30,000 miles is about the right interval for the use this vehicle gets.
 

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So I'll admit it..

I got lazy. Got out of work early two Fridays ago. Went to the Ford dealer. They were dead. So I said what the hell BG flush my trans. The procedure runs roughly 16 quarts of trans fluid through according to the tech I talked to.. Yes expensive($189) compared to doing myself. But just don't have the time.

It does seem to be a bit smoother in the shifts. I have 66,000 miles on my car. Plan on keeping it for awhile. So figured better have it done at least once in It's lifetime.
 

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I'm at 150K right now with my 6 speed. no problems yet, and I've done a double drain and fill at 90K and 120K. To me I'm not going to waste my time trying to find out what I can use, and risk trans problems, I just buy the Ford spec Premium Auto trans fluid.
 
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