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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to do a 5k mile oil change. I have several questions...

1.) Where is the best place to jack up the car? I saw the notch marks where the manual says to place a car jack for changing a flat tire, but is it ok to use a floor jack there?

2.) Where is the best place to put jack stands once I have the car up?

3.) What size socket do I need for unscrewing the oil plug?

4.) What type of oil filter wrench works best (socket type, wrap around band type, etc)?

5.) Any other tips?

Thanks.

Gary
 

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[quote author=Gary98Z link=topic=91081.msg1764380#msg1764380 date=1191785317]
I'm getting ready to do a 5k mile oil change. I have several questions...

1.) Where is the best place to jack up the car? I saw the notch marks where the manual says to place a car jack for changing a flat tire, but is it ok to use a floor jack there?

2.) Where is the best place to put jack stands once I have the car up?

3.) What size socket do I need for unscrewing the oil plug?

4.) What type of oil filter wrench works best (socket type, wrap around band type, etc)?

5.) Any other tips?

Thanks.

Gary
[/quote]

1) I use a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 right behind the factory jack points. Some have said the factory points are ok. I'm a little leery of that.

2) Stands can be put directly in front or behind the factory jackpoints.

3) 15mm wrench works best for me.

4) You shouldn't need one. If it's on more than hand tight, it's too tight. I think I used a band-type for the first change since the factory put it on so darned tight.

5) Other tips? Yeah - have plenty of paper towels or shop towels ready for the mess when you unscrew the filter. Use all 6 quarts or even a little more if possible. Motorcraft 5W20 oil in 5 quart jugs and oil filters are sold at Walmart. Stock up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome! Thanks for the info.

Gary
 

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Six qts? Perhaps you are putting in too much. The manual and all tech data says 4.8 qts. I've filled mine up with 5. That and the residual oil from the previous fill is plenty.
 

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MRC - You have an I4. The V6 takes 6.0 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, got it done.

Glad to say everything went smooth. I don't think I've ever had a car that used 6qts of oil! My oil drain pan was just barely large enough to hold it. I did let it drain for about 45min though. :) I had my first oil change done (free of charge) at the dealer when I hit 1k miles. When I looked at the area around the oil filter under the car, I seriously doubt the dealer changed the filter (this would explain it being a free oil change vs oil and filter). The area around the oil filter was still very clean. When I took the filter off, it spewed oil everywhere. It took me about 15min or so to wipe down all the little nooks and crannies, and I know the dealer wouldn't have taken the time to do this.

Unfortunately, I was not able to get the big 5qt jug of Motorcraft oil and filter, so I had to settle for individual quarts and a Pure One oil filter :(. Next time I'll buy the oil/filter a week before instead of a day before.

Since I had the car up, I also rotated the tires while the oil was still draining. BTW, if you don't have access to air tools, the Dewalt cordless 18v impact gun sure makes quick work of the lug nuts!

I took pics of where I placed the jack and jack stands if anyone wants them. Just email me and I'll send them.

Gary
 

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So how did you put your car on jack stands? One conner at a time? Is there a way to jack the front/rear end at once? On my other cars I can use center point on the cross member. Is there anything similar for this car?

Thanks,
 

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just an FYI... you can get a pair of plastic ramps at autozone, pepboys, etc for around $30-$40. there are usually a couple different heights to choose from, get the lower ones (the fusion's front end is pretty low, it won't clear the tall ones). its money well spent, it's easier and faster than jacking up the car.
 

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[quote author=FusionFanatic link=topic=91081.msg1855378#msg1855378 date=1195092649]
just an FYI... you can get a pair of plastic ramps at autozone, pepboys, etc for around $30-$40. there are usually a couple different heights to choose from, get the lower ones (the fusion's front end is pretty low, it won't clear the tall ones). its money well spent, it's easier and faster than jacking up the car.
[/quote]

yep that is what i have. mine are the old metal style but ramps are great for everything. used them when i did the swaybar and H brace as well. Money very well spent.
 

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Well, how do you rotate the tires then? I'm probably going to buy some ramps, but I'm still not sure how to quickly get some tire rotation action going on without doing a 4-wheel jackstand thing.

Gary98Z, PM sent.
 

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[quote author=thereisnospoon link=topic=91081.msg1861934#msg1861934 date=1195346368]
Well, how do you rotate the tires then? I'm probably going to buy some ramps, but I'm still not sure how to quickly get some tire rotation action going on without doing a 4-wheel jackstand thing.

Gary98Z, PM sent.
[/quote]

I have always used the "cross forward" method -- fronts go to opposite side rear and rear go forward. I use the spare in place of the first tire removed and it gives you a chance to check the air. Therefore, you only need a jack and one jack stand.
 

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See, I'm a fan of that kind of rotation too, but at the dealership they tell me that they only do a front-to-back rotation, and they do NOT cross the backs when putting them on the fronts.

Does anyone know which way is better? Seems like to me that if you don't cross the rear tires when moving them back to the front, that any cupping or one-sided wear you might have will only continue to get worse.
 

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[quote author=thereisnospoon link=topic=91081.msg1862265#msg1862265 date=1195362489]
See, I'm a fan of that kind of rotation too, but at the dealership they tell me that they only do a front-to-back rotation, and they do NOT cross the backs when putting them on the fronts.

Does anyone know which way is better? Seems like to me that if you don't cross the rear tires when moving them back to the front, that any cupping or one-sided wear you might have will only continue to get worse.
[/quote]

it may just be easier for the dealerships to do it front to back because a lot of tires are now coming out Uni-Directional now so you cannot cross them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
[quote author=MKZman link=topic=91081.msg1861947#msg1861947 date=1195347055]
I have always used the "cross forward" method -- fronts go to opposite side rear and rear go forward. I use the spare in place of the first tire removed and it gives you a chance to check the air. Therefore, you only need a jack and one jack stand.
[/quote]

This is the correct way. If you read the manual, they say to rotate them like MKZman stated. Your avg tire shop will just do front to back and back to front too, at least that's what they did to me on another car even when I told them the correct way. I thought the dealer would at least know how to do it correctly, but I guess they save alot of time and $ doing it the other way. Plus, alot of times the shops end up cranking down the lug nuts with the impact gun, which is way tighter than what the correct torque specs are. I ended up leaving the front on jack stands, then jacked up the back side one at a time. It only needs to be up maybe an inch off the ground so you can get the tire off. Just make sure you loosen the lug nuts a little before lifting the rear. They are easier to loosen when the tire is on the ground vs in the air (if you don't have an impact gun). I also had the front tire right next to me so as soon as the back tire came off, I could just pop the front tire on in it's place, snug down the lug nuts, then lower the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
[quote author=MilanGuy link=topic=91081.msg1850243#msg1850243 date=1194929924]
So how did you put your car on jack stands? One conner at a time? Is there a way to jack the front/rear end at once? On my other cars I can use center point on the cross member. Is there anything similar for this car?

Thanks,
[/quote]

I was looking for a center point as well, but yes, I did one corner at a time. If you look behind the front air damn, it looks like a part of the frame runs through there. You could probably jack the car up there, but I wasn't 100% sure so I didn't use it.
 

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[quote author=MKZman link=topic=91081.msg1861947#msg1861947 date=1195347055]

I have always used the "cross forward" method -- fronts go to opposite side rear and rear go forward. I use the spare in place of the first tire removed and it gives you a chance to check the air. Therefore, you only need a jack and one jack stand.
[/quote]

You are describing a cross rearward method, aren't you?

I always cross to the front: so fronts go straight back and rears go to opposite side front. I think this is the way my manuals have always shown it. Either way, if you do it consistently you should be fine. The key is to cross one way so you get even wear.
 

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[quote author=Cueball link=topic=91081.msg1864578#msg1864578 date=1195485586]
[quote author=MKZman link=topic=91081.msg1861947#msg1861947 date=1195347055]

I have always used the "cross forward" method -- fronts go to opposite side rear and rear go forward. I use the spare in place of the first tire removed and it gives you a chance to check the air. Therefore, you only need a jack and one jack stand.
[/quote]

You are describing a cross rearward method, aren't you?

I always cross to the front: so fronts go straight back and rears go to opposite side front. I think this is the way my manuals have always shown it. Either way, if you do it consistently you should be fine. The key is to cross one way so you get even wear.
[/quote]

You are right. Fronts to rear. Rear to opposite side.
 
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