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Discussion Starter #1
I assume I would need an LOC, an amp, and a sub etc.

Looking to retain the stock HU, for Sync.

Anyone found the stock audiophile sub amp - where is it located? Can you just replace it with an aftermarket amp, and subs?

Does anyone make free air 6x9 subs anymore?
 

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The amp is located on the right side of the trunk wall behind the paneling. Where are your wiring diagrams (that's the best I could do, they were small to begin with and contrary to what they show on CSI, if it's junk to begin with, it's going to be junker if you zoom in lol) to help you out, it shows the violet/green and Green/white to be the inputs for the sub amp. I'm not sure if the crossover is in the main unit or if it's in the sub amp. "I've heard" that the bass is toned down on some stock HUs as the volume is increased to cut down on distortion, i'm not sure if that applies to the audiophile or not.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/3324/stereo1n.jpg
http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/4249/stereo2.jpg

There are several companies that still make 6x9 subs, i've not used any myself so I have no actual experience with them and will not comment on them.
 

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Don't change it.

If you want extra bass, add a small sub with an aftermarket amp. The amp that drives the subs in the back (im pretty sure) also powers the rest of the stereo or at least parts therein.

Just splice the LOC into the speaker wires that go to the rear shelf subs, hook the RCA's to an amp, and get a sub to do any bass fill you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guys.

I have an older Orion amp kicking around from a previous system, so an LOC from the back deck wires to it is likely the simplest.

And, I guess I will have to decide if I want to commit to a box of any size in the trunk, since 6x9 free air subs are like hens teeth these days!
 

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The only thing I would worry about is if your stock system auto eqs the bass out at higher volumes. I know the stock system on the 2010 was doing something different to my signal when the volume was turned up. If this is the case, I would suggest getting a loc like the audio control lc2I. Its 2 channels and has a bass compensation mechanism, similar to the ac matrix. It can be had for $100 or less and is easy to install. It is the route I had considered before deciding to just replace the head unit. It will need 12v power, but shouldn't be a problem since you will be running an amp in your trunk.
 

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cdt audio

I've updated my HU to a Kenwood Excelon DNX9990HD with the new iDatalink Maestro RR.

Now that I have an adjustable gain and crossover frequency/slopes to the rear factory sub amp, I can hit the limitations of the rear factory speakers fairly easy.

While searching for a freeair solution, I came accross these 6x9 subs and I'm considering trying a set of the ES-0690 Gold subs.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/6x9/6x9_series.htm
 

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ok so i know this is an old thread, but my fusion (which will hopefully be coming today, has the 8 speaker audiophile system with sync. Basically i want to be as loud and clear as possilble. I do have 2 twelve inch kicker subs and an 800 watt amp from my previous car , as well as two kicker door speakers and 6x9's which sound pretty good (other than one of them blowing out :roll: )

so, i was wondering what you guys think about my situation ?!
 

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I haven't had your exact setup, but
In my 2008. I had the factory 6-speaker. I moulded a fiberglass box into the trunk and added an MTX 12" sub and MTX speakers in all four doors. Helped quite a bit but not perfect. I could at least drive in the country with the windows down.

In my 2010, I have the Sony 12-speaker. The best I've found so far is to keep all the factory speakers and put a bigger amplifier on the 6x9s. They handle quite a bit more power than Sony rates them for.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Nearly 3 years later and back with an update and a question.

Ultimately left the system stock but was always wanting more bass.

Having an amp and sub box (bit the bullet and decided to give up 1 cubic foot of trunk space) installed later this week at a shop.

Amp is new and will be installed by them. Assume they can pull signal off the stock subs in the deck and use high level inputs to a mono sub amp. Amp has a remote gain, so I think I will be OK with overall volume and tweaking the bass with its own volume.

Sub is a sealed 12 inch Orion.

Question - for those that have added a sub to the stock setup - do you leave the 6x8 subs in the deck in place and functional - or do you pull those out and let the new sub do ALL the bass. Assume removing the stock "subs" would allow more sound from the trunk to the cabin (in a good way).

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
After some reading and thinking about this I decided to remove the stock subs in the rear deck.

I figure the bass from my new sub would impact those free air subs anyway.

I will report back how it goes. And if the audiophile system rolls the bass off like the other Ford setups too. The shop thinks it might, but I think they want to sell me an Audiocontrol LC2i! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Clarion 6120 is installed. Pulled signal off the deck subs (removed to allow bass into the cabin). Remote gain volume knob positioned on the transmission tunnel up by my right knee.

I can say that I don't notice any bass roll off. The combination of the sealed Orion 12 and the Clarion amp is producing good bass. Much deeper and more enveloping than the stock 6x9's could ever dream of.

No LOC required for this particular install.

Good fun!
 

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The Clarion 6120 is installed. Pulled signal off the deck subs (removed to allow bass into the cabin). Remote gain volume knob positioned on the transmission tunnel up by my right knee.

I can say that I don't notice any bass roll off. The combination of the sealed Orion 12 and the Clarion amp is producing good bass. Much deeper and more enveloping than the stock 6x9's could ever dream of.

No LOC required for this particular install.

Good fun!
question for you, i have a 2008 that im doing a sub and amp and i have a powered LOC with remote sub control, i tapped into the rear deck wires but was told not to by and it made sense. then said tapping into them after the amp im only getting amplified shitty signals from my stock HU, i have been chasing problems with amps and im wondering if it has anything to do with the stock HU or where im tapping in for the LOC, I tried tapping into it from before the amp and i couldnt get signal, im assuming because i was going into the RCA input and not the HP input. during all your conversations with the audio guys have you ever been told not to tap into the rear deck subs for the LOC?
 

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I posted on this thread this AM and because im a new member my posts have to be approved, but this is terrible that my post still hasnt been approved, Is this forum still monitored? whats the deal cause i just posted on another thread and it didnt tell me i had to wait for approval?? very strange...
 
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