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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been cruising around the mazda 6 forums. Apparantly the oil filter on the 4-cyl versions use a cartridge type and not a spin on. It requires a special too to remove the cover to access the filter. The cover is made of plastic and can crack easily, causing fast oil drainage of the engine and ruining it instantly. Since my car isn't here yet, I was wondering if anyone on this board has the 4-cyl, and if they could take a look to see if ours has the spin on or cartridge. The mazda 3 has a spin on though, and many 6 owners are converting their cartidge to spin on using the parts from the 3.
 

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The "special tool" is an allen wrench. There's a drain plug in the center that you use the allen wrench on, then just spin the bottom off when it all drains. Just you so know, the first oil change is a bitch! I think He-Man puts the cap on at the factory.
 

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I wasn't talking about the allen wrench lol. I meant the oil filter wrench, even though it is a cartridge type filter, it still requires a socket type oil filter wrench, I believe it is a 68 mm. Thats not what bothers me though. Its the fact that the cover is made of plastic and if a socket type wrench is not used, the cover can be put on too tight and crack, and then cause a leak. This would be especially true if you take your car to Jiffy Lube or whatever, and they have no idea what they are doing. I can't even find any socket type oil filter wrenches in this country (UK), so I guess I'll have to get a strap wrench and be very careful. I do have a universal wrench that is the chain type, definately don't want to use that. I also don't want to have to deal with the O-rings, I know this whole procedure isn't hard, I've dealt with cartridge filters before, I would just much rather have a spin-on filter since it makes life that much easier.
 

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[quote author=Showtime link=topic=42271.msg621334#msg621334 date=1142559718]
I didn't know you knew that. I figured some dealership might have told you it needed a special tool just to get you to have their service dept. work on it.

You can change the cartridge to a spin on. I found a link to a step by step w/ pics. -http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=47&Itemid=0
[/quote]

Where can you get the new oil filter adapter and how much is it? Does the gasket come with it?
Just recieved my fusion this week and I already don't like the sound of that Oil filter cartridge. This seems like a must for me. Hopefully it doesn't lower oil pressure or anything and it keeps the oil flowing in the right direction. Has anybody had any problems with this project? Thanks for the great pics.
 

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That WAS going to be one of my first mods, but seeing how I can purchase the cartridge hex socket for $15, and quality aftermarket filter elements exist...I think I will just leave it as it is.

[quote author=Cross Bolt link=topic=42271.msg796397#msg796397 date=1151715233]
   I am seeing and reading THINGS. You might not want to modify the oiling system, just yet. :?
[/quote]
 

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[quote author=Cross Bolt link=topic=42271.msg796397#msg796397 date=1151715233]
   I am seeing and reading THINGS. You might not want to modify the oiling system, just yet. :?
[/quote]

What are you seeing exactly? Any problems? Warranty issues?
 

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[quote author=BlackI4se link=topic=42271.msg807542#msg807542 date=1152267816]
[quote author=Cross Bolt link=topic=42271.msg796397#msg796397 date=1151715233]
   I am seeing and reading THINGS. You might not want to modify the oiling system, just yet. :?
[/quote]

What are you seeing exactly? Any problems? Warranty issues?
[/quote]

While I am very certain that Ford chose to use the cartridge filter for economic reasons and to help curb the waste of our natural resources. One cannot dispute an obvious observation that the cartridge poses less impedance to oil flow. If I was going to use this power plant and build an economic race engine, this is the filter I would use.
While your car is under warranty, you might not want to modify anything to do with the oiling system.
On this side of the fence, I have seen no reported issues with our I-4 but in the Mazda camp, two issues have cropped up centered around rod bearings. It is not my intension to start a fear factor and when we read these threads, we really don’t know how these engines are being treated.
Anyway, I am still not sure about this thin oil, especially in the climate in which I live. So change your oil when it should be changed and use good motor oil. 8)
 

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[quote author=Metallicat link=topic=42271.msg806448#msg806448 date=1152222714]
That WAS going to be one of my first mods, but seeing how I can purchase the cartridge hex socket for $15, and quality aftermarket filter elements exist...I think I will just leave it as it is.

Where can I get one of these Hex Sockets for it? AutoZone? Also, do you have a part #?[/quote]
 

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Changed my oil tonight. Not too bad, but you will need ramps which I quickly found out. I thought I could get the drain plug off without ramps but it was on there pretty tight and I could not put enough torque on the wrench without raising the front end of the car. So I improvised and very carefully drove up on some large 4" tall wooden blocks which gave me just enough room to get the drain plug off. It took me about twice as long as a normal oil change due to the fact that I dropped the filter cartridge drain plug in the oil pan (that oil was HOT!). Then I used the Mazda oil cartridge socket to remove the plastic cap, and a lot of oil came out, soaking my hands and arms, even though I had removed the drain plug.

I bought a Purolator Pure One oil filter cartridge from Pep Boys which comes with new o-rings. They didn't have an updated listing of 2006 vehicles, so I used the 2005 2.3 Mazda3 part number. Looked just like the Ford filter that came out of it. Also put in 4.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-20. That is a rather odd oil capacity. The 6 cylinder takes 6 quarts, the 4 cylinder 4.5. Dipstick is difficult to read with fresh oil.

Oh, and beware of the dealer oil changes. The oil change at my dealer was only $29, but when I looked at the receipt it said "bulk oil" on it. So they probably just dumped in bulk 5W-30. That was 3500 miles ago, from now on I am doing my own changes.

So far, so good...no leaks! I was concerned with the filter cover and filter drain plug which torques into the plastic housing.
 

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I just performed the first oil change on my 2.3 5 sp. manual Fusion today at the 2000 mile mark. Wasn't too bad. I used my regular oil filter wrench and had no problems. I think the biggest problem I had was trying to find the correct oil filter at the auto parts stores. All the books were calling out a regular spin-on oil filter.Even the guy at NAPA handed me a spin-on filter. I went out to the car and got the Motorcraft part number from the owners manual. The sales person called someone who was able to reference the correct part number and told me they would have to order it. I finally said the heck with it and went to the dealer and got the correct Motorcraft FL2017B filter, actually I bought 2 of them.
Just a couple things of note:
1) The oil filter drain plug is not an allen head, it is a T-40 Torx.
2) There's a brass insert that the oil filter drain plug screws into- it's not screwing directly into threaded plastic. That WOULD scare the heck out of me.
 

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[quote author=clay01 link=topic=42271.msg998013#msg998013 date=1160270737]
I just performed the first oil change on my 2.3 5 sp. manual Fusion today at the 2000 mile mark. Wasn't too bad. I used my regular oil filter wrench and had no problems. I think the biggest problem I had was trying to find the correct oil filter at the auto parts stores. All the books were calling out a regular spin-on oil filter.Even the guy at NAPA handed me a spin-on filter. I went out to the car and got the Motorcraft part number from the owners manual. The sales person called someone who was able to reference the correct part number and told me they would have to order it. I finally said the heck with it and went to the dealer and got the correct Motorcraft FL2017B filter, actually I bought 2 of them.
Just a couple things of note:
1) The oil filter drain plug is not an allen head, it is a T-40 Torx.
2) There's a brass insert that the oil filter drain plug screws into- it's not screwing directly into threaded plastic. That WOULD scare the heck out of me.
[/quote]

I just did my oil change and my filter used an allen scew not a torx bit. This car is the biggest pain in the @ss to change the oil on. I ened up just taking the entire lower engine cover off so the next time it will not be so bad. I have been changing oil for over 20 years and have never seen an engine cover on the bottom. My thinking in removing it is what if i get an oil leak or tranny leak or somthing like that. How am i going to see it if it all goes on the cover not the ground.
 

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[quote author=DrPaul84 link=topic=42271.msg1280036#msg1280036 date=1174433026]
have you ever worked on a newer car? they all have lower engine shields.....
[/quote]

05 SRT-4 that i work on all the time for a friend does not. Also worked on a lot of 2000 and up mustangs that did not have then either.
 

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You can use the same filters for the 2.3 Fusion that the 2.3 Mazda 6 uses (cartridge style). A lot of the auto stores list a spin-on filter for the 2.3 Fuse, for some reason. I have been using the Purolator filter listed for the Mazda.
 

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Changing your car out to a spin on will void warranty. I've already checked with the dealership.

The only reason they use the cartridge is to save a buck or two. :(

The strange thing is the 2.3L Focus ST has a spin on oil filter. Hmmm
 

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[quote author=larryinfl link=topic=42271.msg1364230#msg1364230 date=1177523268]
Changing your car out to a spin on will void warranty. I've already checked with the dealership.

The only reason they use the cartridge is to save a buck or two. :(

The strange thing is the 2.3L Focus ST has a spin on oil filter. Hmmm
[/quote]

yep i checked as well. They said it is modifing the oiling system so the warranty is gone at that point.
 
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