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Is it just me, or is the dip stick hard to read? I recently changed the oil in my Milan and had a hard time reading the level. I really do not like the this new wire dip stick, what happened to the traditional flat piece of spring steel dip stick.
 

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It is a little difficult, but if you can see anything glistening in that wire area, you're good...that's the comfort zone. The sump holds 4.8 qts per the manual. Putting in 5 qts will be perfect. Changed my oil just the other day with a Pure One filter and five qts of Amsoil XL 5W-20.
 

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Yeah, it is a little difficult to read. I just hold it eye level and estimate.
 

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I thought it was very hard to read when the oil is new/clean. It gets better as you drive :). I thought it held 4.5 qts? That's what I put in, and it's full.

Update: My manual states 4.5 US Quarts on page 267. Not that it really matters, or makes a huge difference. My Mariner (same engine) also take 4.5.
 

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amsoil xl 5w-20 is garbage oil....it's not even 100% syn....you need to get the ow-20 amsoil to get 100% syn and 25000 miles or 1 year oil changes....the XL is crap group 3 base stock.......GARBAGE
 

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[quote author=jamhole538 link=topic=90850.msg1759830#msg1759830 date=1191547166]
amsoil xl 5w-20 is garbage oil....it's not even 100% syn....you need to get the ow-20 amsoil to get 100% syn and 25000 miles or 1 year oil changes....the XL is crap group 3 base stock.......GARBAGE
[/quote]

Umm -- I wouldn't say "Garbage" or "crap". You will be hard pressed to find any 5w-20 (with API symbol) -- which would be "Garbage". I suppose you think Motorcraft oil is "garbage" as well -- since you can't go 20K mi on 1 OCI? "Most" people within warranty will want to stick with 5K OCIs. In that case, any off-the-shelf dino 5w20 (meeting Ford spec) will work fine.
 

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do some research buddy..not trying to bash you but GROUP 3 BASE STOCK OIL IS CRAP.....look online about it....and then youcan make an disagreement and yes for ford's syn blend is CRAP...but their full syn is "OK"...even if you are going to do 5k oilchanges WHY wouldnt you put the best in..... if your SOOOOO worried about your car....if i was you i would still put the ow-20 amsoil and change at 5k...since it's the best on the market right now :klavergreg:
 

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Check out BITOG UOA (Used Oil Analysis) section, and search for MC 5w20. Stating it's "crap" is ignorant. Would I use it for 20K miles, NO. Is there better oil out there -- YES. But, it is far from crap, and it will do you engine no harm with moderate OCIs. While your there, check out any UOAs for name-brand 5w20 dino. Report back with your findings.
 

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lol pennzoil in the yellow bottle which is base 2....worse than base 3....is better that that MC5w-20....i never said either would harm your engine...i was saying MC is crap OIL which it is compared to mobil, amosil, royal purple, etc...lol pennzoil is better than MC...thats funny...GO FORD OIL...GARBAGE
 

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jamhole talking out his ass again. You're stupid if you think that PAO based oils are full synthetic. ALL OILS USE PETROLEUM AS CARRIERS FOR THEIR ADDITIVES, IDIOT. Not to mention, Hydrocracked Grp III oils have proven to provide just as good, if not better, protection than PAO based oils. Not only that, my Amsoil XL is about three dollars a qt less than your 0W-20. Stop being a douche.
 

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Mobil first used the Synthetic label to tag their PAO based oils (which we're even unsure if they are PAO based any longer). Castrol used the label on their hydrocracked grp III base stock oils and Mobil fought them. Needless to say, both use synthetic engineered properties to produce. Mobil was upset that Castrol was producing a high quality oil, for less price and marketing it as synthetic. Now hydrocracked grp III's have become fairly standard and highly effective and cost less. But you have idiots clinging to the fact that it's not "full synthetic" because it's not PAO. Even PAO isn't full synthetic and the term was first used by Mobil, that doesn't mean they have the right to determine what is or isn't synthetic. You can do your own research at www.bobistheoilguy.com and read posts and articles from tribologists and people in the business. Or, you can listen to jamhole, who lives at "your mom's house"...the choice is yours.

I think the decision should be relatively easy.
 

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not need for insults man...dont be mad...that your wrong....i have looked up and down bobtheoil...**** site...the group 3 are garbage and PAO are FULLY SYN...what garbage are you trying to tell people
 

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and have fun with you group 3 garbage oil even amsoil themselves say it's not a syn....and my 0w-20 cost 6.50 whiel the 5w-20 cost 6.25...so i'll pay .25 cents more for a better oil that lasts longer and protects better.....i am done. 8)
 

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mobil uses pao and group 3 in all there mobil 1 lines
 

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and yes the oil stick is very hard to read btw :klavergreg:
 

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[quote author=jamhole538 link=topic=90850.msg1762099#msg1762099 date=1191629291]
and have fun with you group 3 garbage oil even amsoil themselves say it's not a syn....and my 0w-20 cost 6.50 whiel the 5w-20 cost 6.25...so i'll pay .25 cents more for a better oil that lasts longer and protects better.....i am done. 8)
[/quote]

bullcrap. My bottles of XL say "full synthetic"...Amsoil only differentiates between PAO and Grp III.

Also, an ellipse shouldn't be used in the place of a period.
 

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You really don't know when to quit. I know the difference between Grp III and PAO based and I also know that the performance difference is very little if at all.

Stick to what you want, jim'shole...the ASM is a great oil. I'll stick to the XL which a perfectly fine and great performing oil application for my 6K OCI. A little education and open mindedness goes a long way.
 

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"Although AMSOIL has publicly stated that its XL motor oils are Group III based "
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.aspx

i stop talking about this


BUT HEY THE DIP STICK IS HARD TO READ
 
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