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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 11,000 miles on my '06 Milan. I started to feel a pulsation in the brake pedal about 500 miles ago. I brought it to the dealer and they cut the rear rotors. After a test drive they said the fronts needed to be cut also. I needed my car so I will have to take it back. I had the same problem with my '04 Mazda 6. At least they ackowledged the problem and extended the warranty to the full 50,000 miles. Problem was the warped on me 5 times! Due to that and other problems I traded it in on the Milan, Now here it is back at me. Big problem here! Since they will only cut them they probably won't last as long as the "new" ones. As I told the service manager "I can only hope that they warp again before the 18,000 mile warranty that is on the brakes. Also, I am not Speed Racer and am very easy on the brakes. Perhaps to easy? Maybe shorter, harder stops are better then longer, easy ones? I just hope that if I have to start apying for rotors that I can find some aftermarket ones that will outlast the stock ones. Anyone else having brake problems? Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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I am feeling a warped rotor on my SEL at 13.5k miles. I-4 manual and i do lots of coasting in neutral to try to get the max fuel economy (to see what it can do, not to save $$). So I use the brakes less and less when no one is behind the car. Maybe the wife is doing hard braking with cold rotors? I found out why my F-150 mileage dropped when she drove it...75% throttle towards a red light....duh.
 

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No issues with the rotors or brakes on my Milan after 25,000 miles.

I have had a lot of problems with the rotors warping on both Focus' that we had/have. I could not wait until I was able to replace them with non-Ford rotors.

Warped rotors make driving terrible, hope you get this resolved without issue.
 

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[quote author=mtl1977 link=topic=75820.msg1365716#msg1365716 date=1177556528]
I am feeling a warped rotor on my SEL at 13.5k miles. I-4 manual and i do lots of coasting in neutral to try to get the max fuel economy (to see what it can do, not to save $$). So I use the brakes less and less when no one is behind the car. Maybe the wife is doing hard braking with cold rotors? I found out why my F-150 mileage dropped when she drove it...75% throttle towards a red light....duh.
[/quote]

Why is it that women drive cars so much harder then men. Don't get me wrong, men drive spiritedly but overall women seem to drive cars harder and care less about the consequences. Even my 80 year old grandma is straight on the throttle until the last second then brakes real hard!

Ford rotors just seem to not last long, had the same problem on my parents f150 and uncle f250. However, mine are still just fine at 8,700k miles.

Oh and I'm not trying to put down women here.
 

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My Fusion has 15000 miles and had the car since November 2005 and still have the same rotors and brakes. No problems what-so-ever. I do keep the car indoors in my garage and baby her after car washes, rain, and mud potholes. Never leave her outside, I do baby her :oops:. Could it be the outdoors you know snow, salt, and rust that did your rotors in.

You know guys the only problem I have with my car is that it needs more torque, but then fuel economy makes me think otherwise. I have a V6.
 

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The Mazda 6 and the Milan have virtually the same brake and suspension systems, so there wasn't much chance you were going to get away from the problem by switching vehicles. A lot of it does have to do with the way you drive, but sometimes being "harder" on the brakes is better for them, as long as they have time to cool. Also long highway driving without touching the brakes at all is surprisingly one of the biggest contributors to the "warped" problem.

I put almost 15,000 miles on a Fusion last summer and it didn't have even the slightest hint of brake vibration. When my dad had his 93 Taurus SHO, the rotors on that would warp all the time though. So I've either improved my driving, or Ford's improved their brake systems.
 

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Waldo - could you explain the highway thing, if you have a good reason.

I am experiencing pulsation on stops at 26k miles. I drive a lot on the highway. I would think this would be good for the brakes, not bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, my hope on the switch was that they had figured out the rotor issue after 2-3 years. Also, I had other problems with the 6 and was concerned that once the warranty ran out it would continue to cost me for repairs that should not have existed. I am light on the brakes. So maybe I need to be a little harder on them to shorten the stopping distance. Once they warp again I am going to go to aftermarket. It looks like "Frozen" rotors have a pretty good set (not cheap either) that are not drilled or slotted. This just really sucks because I drive 18-20,000 miles a year. Which means I am getting about 6-8 months out of the rotors before resurfacing or replacing them. :( :( :( :( :(
 

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The good question is how all rotors wraped at the same time?? Normally the fronts wrap first. I have a feeling the dealer replaced all 4 as a courtesy call for you. I highly doubt the rear's were wraped as well.

The rotors normally wrap because of excess heat that the metal can't cool quickly enough. It is better for you rotors to slow the car and to be moving again or vented by outside air rather than comming to dead stop with no air flow. Slow cooling is what wraps the rotors.

How much brake effort normally affects the pad's life more than rotors. The best stopping technique for rotor's life is hard braking at first followed by slow braking till the car stops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish they replaced the rotors. All they did was resurface the rear ones thinking that was the problem. I do not even know if they measured the front ones. That being said. The rears had "excessive" runout when measured. However, after cutting the rear rotors the car still has a vibration. I needed the car so I have to bring it back to do the fronts. I also have some sort of clunk/rattle coming from the front passenger side when going over certain bumps. So, we are trying to determine what that is also. I have a test ride scheduled with the Service Mgr. on Tues. Thanks for the input on braking. Although I have been driving for 33 years now ( and average anywhere from 20-30,000 miles/ year in that time)the 6 and this Milan are the first automatics I have had since I was 18. that is why I am wondering if it might be the way I am braking. I have been downshifting for 32 years, so it definately different. Something I am not use to. I have not had this problem in any of the other cars I have driven. However....I bought the 6 used with 16,000 mile and it had warped front rotors from day one. So that could not have been me. They then warped 4 more times in the next 30,000 miles. All fixed under warranty due to the issues Mazda was having with there brakes. I am very frustrated!
 

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http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

This article will tell you more about "warped" rotors than you ever thought you could know, including the fact that rotors don't really warp. Note how the emphasis is all on the pad, and how a good break-in is the best prevention. I have heard from other sources that confirm these theories.

One thing the article does not mention is a vehicle's sensitivity. All cars can develop DTV (disk thickness variation), but some will transmit more of it to the driver than others. This is the weak point of the Mazda 6/Fusion suspension, it transmits a lot of roughness to the driver, though oddly it is very good at isolating poorly balanced tires. I have some experience with the Lincoln LS, and it is exactly the opposite. Most of this is geometry dictated, but it can also be influenced by the suspension bushing rates and damping properties. Unfortunatly there's not much you can do to reduce the sensitivity.
 

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I have never warped a set of rotors. I also think about them everytime I brake. What sucks about warping them is, once you turn the rotors to correct the pulse or shimmey if you will, they will only warp easier than they did the first time.
 

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I bought my '06 Fusion "used" exactly one month ago today, had 14k on it at the time of purchase. During the test drive(s) before purchase, I noticed a shimmy in the front end during medium to hard braking. Before I bought it, I took it to a reputable mechanic/friend for the fine-tooth going over and found the front rotors were warped. The dealer resurfaced them under warranty. From what I understand, it was a minimal cut. It now brakes as smooth as anything I've ever driven, but in the back of my head I wonder for how long. During my pre-purchase research, I found my car was a fleet vehicle for a large company and serviced regularly, but who knows how it was driven during that time. Maybe not rental car hard, but I took "probably hard" into consideration before purchase. If it was driven rough, I can't tell. I don't know the exact specifications Ford uses for its "QualityChecked Certified Pre-Owned" program, but my car qualified for it.
Looks, drives, smells, & feels like new.

.....well except for that bubbling chrome door handle that the dealer will fix during the next scheduled service.
 
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Noob question here.


If you were to have "warped" rotors. Is it also possible you could feel it while driving around as well. Or just when braking?
 

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Newer rotors aren't like they were 20 years ago or so. People still like to resurface rotors, but there lies the part of the problem. Years ago, you could resurface a rotor several times without a problem...you could get some rotors from the junkyard and resurface them and use them. Newer rotors are lighter and the way they make them lighter is with less machineable surface. Because we are so used to turning rotors, we still believe it is ok to turn them. The fact is, you may not be getting the best braking performance by turning your rotors once you have a problem because the surface may not be there for an adequate turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ryman, to answer your question, yes your can feel it in the steering wheel also (shimmey). This would usually indicate warped front rotors (that is if it's not just tire balance). If the pusation is just in the pedal it is usually the rear rotors. However, this rule is not 100%. You can have pulsation in the pedal, no shimmey and it could be the front brakes. Now as mrc has stated the rotors are not what they use to be. I have been told, that in the near future, we will be changing/resurfacing the rotors more often than replacing the pads. This is because the rotors are thinner now and the pads are harder (less dust, better braking). Problem is....these things need to last more than 10,000 miles. Someone like myself that drives 20,000 miles a year will be doing brake jobs twice a year. If I was to go to the dealer each time, let's say just the fronts @ $300.00 a pop, we are talking $600.00/yr. If we throw in the rears just once and call it $900.00/yr. that's an average of $75.00/mth. in additional maintenance cost. THAT IS UNACCEPTABLE!
 

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Ever seen the rear rotors off of a Five Hundred or a Freestyle? You'd crap your pants. I find myself mic'ing every set, because even new they look way too skinny.
 

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You'd have to have a really seriously "warped" rotor to feel it when you're not using the brakes. I've driven test rotors that are intentionally warped to the "worst case scenario" to test for vehicle sensitivity and you can't feel anything in the steering wheel. I could only see this happening if you caliper slide pins were gummed up or your caliper pistons are sticking.
 

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[quote author=Waldo link=topic=75820.msg1408193#msg1408193 date=1179150485]
You'd have to have a really seriously "warped" rotor to feel it when you're not using the brakes. I've driven test rotors that are intentionally warped to the "worst case scenario" to test for vehicle sensitivity and you can't feel anything in the steering wheel. I could only see this happening if you caliper slide pins were gummed up or your caliper pistons are sticking.

[/quote]

Lol, I wasn't going to say anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[quote author=Waldo link=topic=75820.msg1408193#msg1408193 date=1179150485]
You'd have to have a really seriously "warped" rotor to feel it when you're not using the brakes. I've driven test rotors that are intentionally warped to the "worst case scenario" to test for vehicle sensitivity and you can't feel anything in the steering wheel. I could only see this happening if you caliper slide pins were gummed up or your caliper pistons are sticking.

[/quote]

Yep, rusty pistons hanging up and not working smoothly.
 
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