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#1 |
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Bicycle Rider
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1
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Went to change the rear pads, 2007 with 56000 miles. Started on the left one, removed and replaced the pads and discs, found the pads worn way down, and what appears to be heat damage-crumbling etc. Put it all back together and the wheel did not move freely. I did the right side and it was fine, not as much wear and moved freely after the job. I'm thinking I have a bad caliper-I removed the emergency brake and the problem, while slightly improved, is still there. Any one have any other ideas? I torqued everything to specs and lined up the piston with the notch, and turned it in all the way. Thanks
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#2 |
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Le Mans: GT Class
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 982
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I assume the wheel spins freely if you remove the caliper from the bracket?
See if you can find a wrecked Fusion at a Pick-and-Pull-type junk yard or search eBay for a rear caliper.
__________________
![]() Steeda STB + Napa Rotors + CT-3 Pads + Redline Quicklift Elite + Progress RSB + TWM Short Shifter + Smoked Markers + SS Gen 1 Rear Window Wing + 15mm wheel spacers + F2 CAI http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3054677 |
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
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I have the same issue w/ the L/R caliper freezing and not releasing.
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#4 |
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Moped Rider
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: WNY
Posts: 33
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Be sure that the pads alone move freely in the caliper brackets. In the rust belt it is not uncommon for corrosion products to build up on the bracket to the point where the pad is no longer able to retract. This happened to me. Careful cleaning of the bracket where the S/S inserts ride and lubrication with dielectric silicone can work wonders. In extreme cases it may be necessary to gently grind the metal "ears" of the pads to create additional clearance.
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