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$16k to spend on fusion help me...

7K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  bbf2530 
#1 ·
:lol:New here, this is my second post.

I have an old 97 2.5l V6 sebring convertible thats nearing the end of it's life.

I'd like to buy a car with little machanical worries, and I have researched a lot and found the Fusion to be the best candidate.

I don't know what year I should be looking at. But this is some of the stuff I would like it to have.

Maybe you can point me in the right direction of what year and model I should be looking at.

-Less then 30k miles
-Some type of warranty
- Sunroof
- Fog lamps
- cloth seats (wife is allergic to leather)
- I really like the "deep impact blue" exterior color

I plan to later install a after market double din radio/navigation unit. So I don't know if the "sync" would be compatible or not?

I don't know what type of engine to get, but I would like something smooth, peppy, and gets good gas mileage.

Any help would be appreciated... even if your suggestion is a totally different brand or model...
 
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#3 ·
Everything I've read, and my 2012 has been a good example, is that the 2011 and 2012 models have been more or less bullet proof in terms of reliability. Mine hasn't had a single issue in the first 30K KMs. Judging by your priorities list above, I would be looking for an SE model with a 4cyl (stick shift preferably) with the moon and tune package (gives you the sunroof and sony stereo) and the sport appearance package (fog lights and those real nice 18" wheels). If some oomph is more important that the fuel economy, get a sport model. I wouldn't bother with an SEL with the 3.0 V6. Same real work fuel economy as 3.5 in the sport but not quite as fun to drive.

Just my .02
 
#5 ·
Looking closer, I see that dealer appears to be in Chicago, which looks like a 65 mile drive from you in Kenosha. But if it was what you're looking for, the price would appear to be worth the drive. Hell, I drove 500 miles round trip to get a deal on my 2010 Fusion Sport when I bought it new.
 
#6 ·
I'm still gonna say buy a Milan if you like the style -- more features, lower price. Got mine fully equipped, 2 years old, 26,000 miles on it for $16,500. I'm talking blind spot radar, navigation, 12-speaker stereo, reverse camera, everything. At that time, a 2010 Fusion without navigation, similar mileage, would've sold for $17,200.
 
#8 ·
Stay away from that Red 2012 SEL (VIN 3FAHP0JG2CR417799) in Chicago, big time!

4/15/13 - Salvage title. (16,919 miles)
A salvage vehicle is a vehicle that has been wrecked or damaged beyond repair; declared a total loss by the insurer; or declared a total loss by reason of theft. When an insurance company as a result of a total loss settlement acquires a vehicle, the insurance company must apply for a Salvage Certificate. If the owner retains possession of a salvage vehicle, the owner must obtain a Salvage Certificate before receiving a total loss statement from the insurance company.

5/06/13 - Sold at auction with Salvage title, extent of damage unknown.

7/17/13 - Rebuilt/Rebuildable title
The vehicle was a salvaged vehicle that was refurbished with new or used parts. An affidavit of repair from the rebuilder or individual making the repairs, stating what repairs were made to the vehicle and that the vehicle is now rebuilt and road operable, may be required to obtain a rebuilt/rebuildable title. These vehicles must also pass a state safety inspection before being allowed back on the road.

And it still has 16,919 miles on it. Stay far away!!!
 
#9 ·
Thanks for doing the vin check for him.

However, I have to disagree with “stay far away”... I purchased my Durango as a salvage vehicle. Other than them re-using the bumper braces, you couldn’t tell it was in a wreck. They replaced the hood, grille, fender and bumper. Never let me down and makes a great road trip vehicle. Geico to this day still insures it full coverage, $50 deductible.

If it drives straight, looks good, nothing looks out of place.. I’d snag it up. It’s a heck of a deal.










(The day I got it. May 2011)
 
#13 ·
sorry for bringing up an old thread. But one buying advice; the I4 models are with madza engines and transmissions, these are not as reliable as the V6 models from what I have read. (1st gen) V6 models have Ford engines and Toyota transmissions, both of which are pretty solid drivetrains. AWD models uses the same basic Haldex AWD system as Volvo, VW, SAAB and some Audi models, except that the system in the Fusion uses Fords own version tweaked of it that allows less wheel slip before engaging the rear wheels, but otherwise it is the same FWD-based AWD system.

I drove mine in the snow this winter and I have been playing on dirt roads and doing some corner carving on some twisty roads as well, all I can say is that the AWD system in the Fusion works brilliantly.
 
#14 ·
by the way, the low gear selection in the automatic models is pretty much sililar to "O/D off" on other cars, it is not "Low range" nor does it lock it in 1st gear as some think, selecting "L" on your shifter just stops it from changing into a higher gear.

So if you wonder why you don't see an O/D off/ button anywhere, then that is pretty much it.
 
#15 ·
Hi MMR. The L selection is explained in our Owners Manuals and much different than an O/D off button. In fact, while I am not sure about all Fusion models, I can tell you that the 2007-2012 MKZ has both the L section and an O/D off button and they perform very differently (O/D essentially only locks out overdrive while L performs other functions such as holding lower gears longer etc.) Again, both are explained in the Owners Manual of models so equipped.

While it has been posted in the past, if anyone is interested I will copy and paste the Owners Manual passages for those who can't find it in their manual or the PDF version.

Good luck.
 
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