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How to replace valve body on 2006 Fusion V6?

34K views 42 replies 14 participants last post by  klitch 
#1 ·
My sister's 2006 Fusion seems to be in need of a valve body. It's suffering from problems described in TSB 08-24-1

I don't have the car here to get an idea of how hard it is since she lives six hours away, but I told her I should be able to replace it. Has anybody replaced the valve body in their 2006-2009 V6? Before I ordered a $925 part, figured I should check in just to make sure it can be done without pulling the trans or any other weirdness.
 
#27 ·
It is not like you have a choice in the matter. That is how Ford has chosen to handle warranty issues on many items.

On the plus side, you might end up with a new trans, as that is what they do when the items are so new that they have not built up a core bank yet.

Ford has done their best to convince everyone, including themselves, that the remanufactured units are as good as new ones. Sadly, there just is no way to have the same level of quality control in the remanufacturing process as there is with new units. Overall, the system works well though, and when things do go wrong, another unit can be installed.

One of the really sad things about this approach (and Ford was far from the originator of this concept in the auto industry) is that the true craftsmen in the dealerships that could overhaul a transmission and make it as good or better than new, are mostly gone. As their work dried up, they could not afford to stick around. Ford places a limit on how much can be spent on a repair, and if the estimate excedes that amount, the unit must be replaced with whatever Ford provides as the replacement.

The remanufacturing does not take place in Ford factories. Those are reserved for either assembly of new cars or making certain new components that feed the assembly plants. Remanufacturing is handled by suppliers. When Ford first moved into this concept, they had a lot of problems controlling the suppliers. Thankfully, today, things are much better.

So although I feel you are not likely to have any trouble with a "factory" remanufactured unit, I have to say that with some, however little it might be, reservation.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for your comments, Big Jim. Yes, I agree that I don't have a choice in the matter, but I'm just wondering what I might have to look forward to. It's clear that they either didn't have the talent, correct diagnosis or parts (or some combination) at the dealership, considering that my first "repair" left me with a worse car than before.

On the plus side, I'm sure that this transmission will come with some sort of warranty, and my factory warranty only has about 4 months left.

I have to shamelessly admit, though, every day I keep driving that 2011 Hyundai Sonata, the more I want one of them. :)

Brad
 
#29 ·
Well, hopefully the final update: I received notice yesterday that the car was ready; I drove towards home and about 2 miles from there, the MIL came on. Back to the dealer, and back in my Sonata for yet another night. Diagnosis: broken O2 sensor, probably during reassembly. Picked it back up today, all was well on the drive home. Everyone cross your fingers for me! I'll give it at least a week or so of my new commute before I dump the $2.5K on that new stereo, though. :)

Oh, and they waived the $100 deductible as well as the charges for the oil change, but I'll do good to break even with the taxes that I had to pay on the rental and the higher cash prices for the tolls that I've incurred daily.

Brad
 
#30 ·
Best of luck to you. I was fortunate not to have metal shavings visible when I pulled the pan and drain plug. The fluid was burnt, but it's still working flawlessly and the fluid was cherry red when I checked it a few weeks ago. I'm sure the overall life was cut short by her waiting for so long to fix it, but it's perfect so far!
 
#31 ·
[quote author=EsJayEs link=topic=189146.msg4001553#msg4001553 date=1303478256]
[quote author=HALOREALM link=topic=189146.msg4001495#msg4001495 date=1303452852]
[quote author=EsJayEs link=topic=189146.msg4001481#msg4001481 date=1303449632]
And just a follow-up in case somebody else wants to tackle this job. It's not bad. Got it done in a few hours, and it shifts like new.
[/quote]

Total cost?
[/quote]

About $1,280 with shipping for the valve body from TascaParts.com, minus a $275 core charge. One can of Permatex Right Stuff for the side pan, and 5 quarts of Castrol import transmission fluid. I initially put 4.75 quarts in, and it was overfilled. So I drained out about a half quart and it was perfect. Not a cheap repair, but it would've much more if the dealer did it.
[/quote]

I know this is an old thread but someone with this issue might find it through Google search like I did. I just wanted to confirm that this worked for me. I noticed the symptoms at about 80k miles and dealt with it until about 110k. I changed the valve and have since then put 10k on the new valve and have had no further issues. A couple of quick points:

It took a couple weeks to get the core back so don't plan on it coming back soon. I also had trouble finding the part. Use the part number search on tascaparts. The part number is in the TSB.

Be careful when removing the pan. There are two wires along the very bottom so if you are using a scraper to break the pan seal you might cut those wires.

You will need torx bits and hex bits. Get those ahead of time if you don't already have them.

It takes less than 4 quarts to fill the transmission back up. The fill plug on mine was seized so I had to use the dipstick tube.

The plastic clips on the wire harness are a pain. I ended up breaking them. Other than the plastic clips this was an easy repair.

It really is as simple as other are making it out to be. In the end it cost me $1,000. The dealership wanted 2k for the valve replacement and 4k for a new transmission.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Help!

Hoping to get some answers by resurrecting this old thread...

My 2009 MKZ is having the dreaded 20mph transmission clunk as described in TSB 08-24-1. Dealers won't do anything because TSB only applies to 2006-2008. :undecided:

I took it upon myself to buy the valve body part myself (8E5Z-7A100-B). I purchased it on ebay and it recently arrived. When I opened the box/packaging I noticed the valve body is covered/soaked in some redish/pinkish fluid which is also leaking all over the packaging.

My question is, is this normal or was it damaged in shipping or something else? The seller claims the part was brand new. My thought was it could be trans fluid, but that wouldn't make sense, unless it was taken out of another vehicle. Was I ripped off? HELP! :huh:
 
#35 ·
Hoping to get some answers by resurrecting this old thread...

My 2009 MKZ is having the dreaded 20mph transmission clunk as described in TSB 08-24-1. Dealers won't do anything because TSB only applies to 2006-2008. :undecided:

I took it upon myself to buy the valve body part myself (8E5Z-7A100-B). I purchased it on ebay and it recently arrived. When I opened the box/packaging I noticed the valve body is covered/soaked in some redish/pinkish fluid which is also leaking all over the packaging.

My question is, is this normal or was it damaged in shipping or something else? The seller claims the part was brand new. My thought was it could be trans fluid, but that wouldn't make sense, unless it was taken out of another vehicle. Was I ripped off? HELP! :huh:
Hi MKZ.:wavey: Normal? No.

From your description, it sounds as though you may have been "ripped off".

Let us know how you make out with the seller and good luck.:cheers:
 
#38 ·
Hi MKZ.:wavey: My opinion? At this point, the best way to satisfy your curiosity may be to contact "several Ford Dealers", as the seller claims he did.

Go to your local Ford Dealers parts department and ask their professional opinion. See if they will open up the same part so you can see first hand.

Let us know how you make out and good luck.:cheers:
 
#40 ·
Haven't logged in for a long while, but I think I replied to MKZForMe's PM. FYI, yes the valve body is shipped in a bag full of trans fluid. Likely because they're tested and to keep everything wet and lubed.

FYI, it's still shifting flawlessly and the fluid is cherry red. The car has about 30-40,000 miles since replacing the valve body. That's been the only issue with the car. She bought it new and now has over 100,000 miles on it. Pretty impressive for a first-year car. Especially since she lives in the mountains and is kind of a dumbass when driving.
 
#41 ·
Thanks for your thread

Thanks for your thread and posting the directions. I just ordered the valve body from Tasca Parts, the xt8 oil online for $8/qt.

I have a 2006 Fusion, started having shifting issues around 72K, at that time there weren't even used / rebuilt transmissions let alone valve assemblies to purchase. I now have 135k, and was just about to replace the entire transmission. Glad I stumbled onto the thread. Same price as a used transmission, but I save $900-$1000 in labor.

Block is on back order, should be shipping in a few days. I will check back in with pictures when I get it done.
 
#42 · (Edited)
*Valve body replaced, problem solved*

I was able to get the valve body changed out on my 2006 Fusion. I managed to take some pictures along the way, http://www.fordfusionclub.com/album.php?albumid=10025. Took 3 hours to remove and replace, then had to wait 24 hours for the form-a-gasket to cure prior to filling the transmission with fluid. A final hour to finish assembly, and clean up.

Total cost:
Valve body - $1265 (-$275 core) = $990
MOTORCRAFT XT8QAW - 4 qt = $45
Permatex Gasket = $8
T55 Torx = $1
Total cost = $1044

Tools required:
Flat screwdriver
T40 Torx for cover bolts
T55 Torx for fill plug ($1 at local hardware store)
10mm Hex for drain plug
12mm socket
10mm socket
~9/32 socket

Started out by removing the air intake tube, just disconnect one electrical connection and loosen the band clamp. This allowed access to the fill plug. I wanted to make sure I could access as other blogs showed that otherwise filling the transmission would be pretty messy. I was also able to remove the air filter base by just pulling up on it to unseat the three vibration mounts and then disconnect the two tabs on the inlet tube near the fender.

Once that was out of the way, you have clear access to the fill plug and the top of the valve body cover bolts. Make sure you can remove the fill plug. Mine was on pretty tight for a fill plug. Once you can remove it, then go ahead and drain the transmission.

Next removed the front air dam under the front bumper. There are 5 screws (might be 9/32 socket, mine were rusted) and three plastic buttons. Need to remove the center of the plastic button then the remaining part will come free. With this out of the way, you gain access to the trans cooler lines and the remaining cover bolts. Have your drain pan under the cover as you pry off the cover from the form - a- gasket.

Once the cover is removed you can disconnect all connectors. The solenoid connectors are pretty difficult to remove, I used a small screwdriver to push them out. Undo the 6 bolts and the two suction cover bolts, and more oil will come draining out. The valve body can now be eased out of the transmission.

Installation is just the reverse. Create a new gasket and install the cover back on. Tighen the drain plugs and cooler hoses. Replace the air dam and filter housing.

Fill the transmission. I had to add right about 3.75 qts. I put in 3 qts, started the engine to warm everything up. Shifted through the gears with the brake on, then checked the fluid level. Added the balance of fluid to top it off.

Took the car out for a drive, able to simulate passing cars, no issues at all. Shifts smooth as the day I bought the car. I have only put about 10 miles on the car so far. If I have any problems I will report back.
 
#43 ·
I have a question. Driving home from work the Trans refused to down shift initially, when it did it slammed so hard it chirped the tires at 40 and made a hell of a metal on metal "bang" like it ripped out a mount. What I'm curious about is if the valve body malfunctioning like this will cause other mechanical failures? If so, what? I want to fix the VB but only if I can determine it hasn't or won't create another failure (requiring a rebuild)

Help a fella out if you can, I'm working 12-14 hours a day, time isn't on my side right now.
 
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